Clothing Engineer

This issue seems to have improved from the last one. It definitely
isn’t as wacky, though skinny jeans seem to unfortunately still be
sticking around…

#111: Coat

I like this coat, with the exception of the back
patch pockets. I am thinking of making it out of a hunter green wool
melton I’ve had in my stash, well, forever. If you click on the image
below, you can view the technical drawing. It is hard to tell from the
photo, but this coat has some very nice classic, military-like lines:

#102: Skirt

This skirt has an interesting mock-wrap front. It looks like it would
be nice if done out of a darker denim, or maybe wool gabardine.

#108: Jacket

Nice fitted little jacket. There’s actually not that many pieces to it,
and it looks like it isn’t even lined. Burda recommends using “fulled
loden”. I had no
idea what loden was, A quick Google search revealed that “fulled loden”
is otherwise known as melton or wool melton in the USA. I think if I
made this jacket out of wool melton I would at least line the sleeves,
if not the whole jacket. Wool melton is like berber fleece in that it
is tough and easy to work with, but doesn’t slide over clothes very
well.

#112: Parka

This is a very RTW style, but looks like a lot of work! I admire it,
but won’t be doing it anytime soon, especially since it is rated a 3.5.

I just received my copy of Easy Guide to Sewing Pants in the mail today.  I must say that after looking at it for a few minutes, I am impressed.  It has everything
you have ever wanted to know about pants, which includes fitting as
well as construction. This book is simple and no-nonsense in its
approach. It does a very good job explaining the theory behind pants
construction, and goes through every step in careful detail. Someone
that has been sewing for 10 or 20 years might be bored, but I think it
is just what I needed. The entire Easy Guide to Sewing collection seems to be this way. It gives beginning and intermediate sewers like me a much-needed hand to hold.

Another thing I like about this book? The ideas are great for people
that are on a budget as well as those that have a no-expense-spared
approach to sewing. That’s one thing I never liked about some sewing
books - they ignore the fact that many sewers (like me) are on a
budget. Sometimes buying all of these fancy notions and supplies is not
an option…we just need to make the most of what we have. I am well
aware of the cost-benefit analysis of  making a garment out of
cheaper fabric, the time invovled, and buying the same thing at a
department store on sale. But my first priority when I sew is fit, then
style, then quality. I just screw up too much to use really good
quality fabric yet! And having an excellent fit really tends to mask
the effects of a cheaper fabric or doubious quality sewing job. Few
people notice quality of the fabric, and even fewer notice the
difference between a good as opposed to perfect sewing job. I find that
even the cheap fabric I buy on clearance is still somehow better
quality and lasts longer than what is on the store racks. This is why I
consider myself to take the engineer rather than artist approach to
sewing. I sew to fix problems (fit) rather than make a masterpiece
(art).

I actually like this book better than Sandra Betzina’s Fast Fit. I
don’t know why, but Betzina’s books don’t quite hit it for me. 
For sure she is an enormously talented woman and makes beautiful
garments, and has excellent ideas. Sometimes when I read her books I go
“wow, that is a really good thing to know” but other times I am left
shaking my head. Betzina’s system of fit is wonderful for women middle
age and over, but I noticed that many of her fitting solutions just
don’t translate well to the younger figure. For some of of her
adjustments by comparing the wrinkles in my clothes to her fitting
chart, and the end result is no better or even worse than what I
started off with. Then I read other books, and their methods work great
for me. I’m not knocking her at all, I just think her fitting
advice isn’t always the best for the younger chicks. On the other hand,
she caters to her target market (middle age and older women) very, very
well.

I’m definitely going to use this book for my next pants project.

There’s a nice little article on Yahoo! today from Dr. Mao about keeping your clothes clean the healthy way.
Some of the suggestions involve using vinegar and baking soda, and
avoiding chlorine-based detergents. He also recommends airing out
dry-cleaned clothes for at least a day before putting them away, if
your cleaner uses perc (which most still do).

People seem surprised about how vinegar is used as a cleaning agent,
despite the strong odor. We use it in our household all the time. It is
cheap, does an excellent job, and the smell does go away. I’ve even
used it as a rinse for wool pants with no ill effects. (In my opinion,
wool is much tougher than most people give it credit for).
I just got the September 2007 issue of Burda.

Sadly, I’m a little disappointed. I really didn’t like most of the
styles in this issue. Tons of boxy styles, and skirts that made even
the models look pear-shaped. The skinny jeans and cigarette pants leg
look needs to go away. The sooner, the better. I have yet to see anyone
above a size 4 really be able to carry off this look. Aside from a
couple of styles, I don’t recommend this issue.

Here are the few styles I did like:

(more…)

Notice anything about the Vogue V2987’s top and view A of Kwik Sew 3497?  Seems to be a popular look this season.

On a side note, that Vogue jacket looks like a very challenging project.  Just look at all of those seams on the back!

If you’re looking for a very…unique skirt to conceal your hips and
thighs, have stellar sewing skills, and some extra lightweight woven
fabric in your stash that you just don’t know what to do with…then Vogue V2971 is the skirt for you.

Now that’s a crazy skirt.  Her big hoop earrings and striped
shirt make me think this is a good gypsy or pirate wench costume.

The quickest way to make a pretty model look short and stumpy…

is to dress her in Vogue V2970 and ballet flats.

What’s up with the big bow?  Was this ensemble inspired by bridesmaid fashion? Why pair it with a baggy top?

Designers Push Formal Elegance.  Will Fashion Follow?

According to this article in the WSJ, ladylike matching tailored
suits with classic pumps and long gloves are the hot thing right now. I
noticed this while reading the August 2007 issue of Burda.  So are
hats and long gloves.

If the fashion industry succeeds in converting
shoppers, several recent style staples could be deemed passé. Low-rise
pants and skirts will be replaced by higher-waisted versions. Fitted
coats could be taken over by oversized, cocoon-shaped styles. And, with
classic pumps and ankle-high lace-up boots with slender heels now
ubiquitous in stores and fashion-magazine spreads, the chunky wedge and
platform shoes that have been popular for several seasons could look
out of place.

Stores from Saks Fifth
Avenue and Neiman Marcus to Banana Republic and Target are promoting
this more formal look as a big trend this season. Bloomingdale’s is
prominently displaying mannequins in matching outfits that include
1920s-style hats and gloves. Even trendy boutiques like Intermix, which
has 18 stores and also sells online, are calling the fitted jacket and
the traditional pump some of the most important fashion items this
season.

From a completely non-practical viewpoint, I love this look.  Most
women look really good with a fitted jacket.  But it doesn’t make
any sense for me, when I’m going to school and it is considered
“dressing up” if I wear a skirt, let alone a blazer.

This article also mentions how high-waisted pants are creeping back
into style.  A VP for Kohl’s truthfully stated that those high
waist pants, like seen on Jessica Simpson, really aren’t flattering for most figures:

But even some in the industry aren’t following all
of the new rules. Kohl’s, for instance, is stocking up on matching
suits, hats, gloves and high-heeled ankle boots. But it is steering
clear of dressy, high-waisted pants. “You have to be very thin for that
to look nice,” says David Hacker, the chain’s vice president of trend
and color. “Anything that’s high-waisted shows every flaw.”

This made me laugh:

There are downsides for the consumer. Some of the
more eclectic styles that worked well in outfits that had a
thrown-together feel may have to be relegated to the back of the closet
for a while. Also, those who have become used to looking more
individualistic may think the traditional, matched look makes them look
like their mothers. There’s also the risk of stepping out in ensembles
that are so highly matched that they may closely resemble someone else.
There’s also the risk of stepping out in ensembles that are so highly matched that they may closely resemble someone else.

I thought part of being “fashionable” meant wearing clothes that
everyone else wears…why else would magazines have a style section
with “must have” pieces?

If looking fashionable yet unique was so important, they would learn to sew.