Archive for October, 2007
Vogue V8449: Evening Gown
Sunday, October 28th, 2007How to Reduce Extra Sleeve Ease
Sunday, October 21st, 2007A fellow PR member
posted a comment on my review for my Burda 1/07 #105 blouse asking how
I removed the excess sleeve ease. I posted a link to an excerpt of Sandra Betzina’s book Fast Fit on Google Books that describes how to do this. (Of course if you find the excerpt helpful I suggest you actually buy Fast Fit - it isn’t very expensive and has a lot of good ideas inside.
A Dry-Clean Only Cotton Shirt?
Friday, October 19th, 2007Why is this Craig Taylor Punch Line Shirt
from Neiman Marcus dry-clean only? The fabric contents are 70% cotton,
23% nylon, and 7% lycra. No silk. No wool. No lining. Just cotton and
nylon shirting, with a little lycra. Is this shirt really that delicate?
Another shirt says “dry clean or hand wash”. It is 97% cotton, 3% lycra.
I throw stuff like this into the laundry all the time. With no ill
effects. Maybe the people that can afford to buy these shirts just
don’t do laundry?
Burda 1/07 #105: Blouse
Friday, October 19th, 2007Finally finished my Burda blouse! I’ve been admiring the pattern for some time, and got around to tracing and sewing it.
Very little trouble with this one (other than the collar stand, which I always
have issues with). I admit the fabric is a very boring color, but it
should go well with a brown skirt or blazer. It looks a bit lumpy in
the photo because I have it tucked in…which is why next time I make
it, I will shorten it. I never liked tucking in my shirts.
For this shirt I decided to not be so picky, and just work to finish
it within a reasonable amount of time. So while there are mistakes here
and there (especially on the collar stand) I did manage to finish it
fairly quickly. The nice part is that no one will ever notice the
mistakes…only I will know they are there.
I did a sloped shoulder adjustment with this blouse. I’m now a
strong believer in the importance of the right shoulder slope. I
think I went a bit too far in my adjustment, but it just hangs so much
nicer than before. Before I would keep taking in my shirts at the bust,
thinking that’s why I had wrinkles and why my shirts looked like they
were just hanging off of me. This was a much simpler adjustment, and
the end result is more comfortable. I guess this is why fitting is so
hard. One problem could have three different causes, all requiring
three different solutions.
Burda 11/07
Friday, October 19th, 2007Burda now has a preview of their next issue online. I think the theme of this issue is parties. Lots of semi-formal cocktail dresses and evening jackets. Everything is taking on the elegant, classic, “lady-like” look mentioned in a few fashion columns about a month ago. It looks like they’re finally starting to get away from those very strange silhouettes common in the last two issues,
though they still pop up occasionally in this one.
Here’s some of my favorites:
113C: Jacket
I really like the pocket placement in this jacket, the
untraditional seams, and the non-fussy details. I have a length of
heathered black wool crepe I haven’t done anything with yet; I wonder
how well it would make up in this style.
115: Coat
Nice classic style coat that can be worn for years and years. If
you look at the technical drawing, it looks like the pockets and
sleeves have zippers. Very cool!
121: Top & 122A: Yoga Pants
A really nice yoga outfit. I think this one is going to be very popular on Pattern Review.
I think that if I make this, I’m going to cut off an inch from the
waistband. I like stuff like that to be a little lower rise.
124: Jacket with Hood
The basic hoodie. I think if I made this one I’d eliminate the ribbing on the cuffs and sew the sleeve straight.
123: Bra Top
Scoop neckline racerback exercise top. I think the key to this
one is finding a wicking fabric with some lycra in it. (A good source
for that type of fabric is The Rainshed.) This looks very similar to the tops Nike sells for $50 a pop.
Double Faced Cashmere is Expensive
Tuesday, October 16th, 2007Candlelight Valley Fabrics has 60″ 100% double faced cashmere in several colors. (My link shows it in burgundy.) The cost per yard? $175.
I guess they really aren’t kidding when they say “easy to work with,
but mistakes can be very costly”. I feel guilty enough when I spend
$175 and get 15 or 20 yards of fabric. I can’t even imagine how bad it
would feel to make a mistake when cutting out this one. Or to
accidentally spill something on the finished garment. I’m a pretty
careful person, but simply don’t trust myself enough with something
like this.
Patrones Magazine
Saturday, October 13th, 2007I came across a few sewing blogs today that mentioned the Patrones
pattern magazine. I’m always interested in new pattern sources, so I
searched for it on Amazon.com.
$440 for twelve issues. And it is only available in Spanish.
Other people don’t seem to balk at the price, but I certainly am…that
would buy quite a bit of fabric. Nice fabric, at that. Must be a pretty
good magazine…
Vogue V8397
Saturday, October 13th, 2007Ever lusted after that sexy bowlegged look? If so, Vogue V8397 is the pattern for you.
I’ve noticed a trend of very weird, very oddly shaped coats, pants,
skirts, etc this fall. Lots of very big, boxy coats that seem to
swallow the models, skirts with heavy draping in the front, and very
high waisted pants that seem designed to make the wearer look as frumpy
as possible.
And now tapered bowleg pants are added to the mix.






