Just finished a quick and very dirty version of Make Bra 2610. It is a foam cup balconette bra.
I never tried this designer before so I didn’t want to get too carried away with the details before seeing how it fit. As a result, my foldover elastic application leaves a little bit to be desired.
The foam is the pre-finished foam lining from Bramaker’s Supply. It is 1/8″ thick and the slippery texture makes it difficult to cut out, but easy to work with since the fabric slips right over it. I noticed that it has doubled in price to $30/meter on their website since I bought it…yikes! It is only 30″ wide too. Luckily Sew Sassy has it available, as does Fabric Depot. The swatch from Sew Sassy has more of a matte rather than shiny texture so it isn’t as luxurious, but at twice the width for almost half the price, it is more than worth it.
Speaking of the foam, here’s the pattern piece for the foam cup. It is just one piece and you butt the edges together and sew them with a 3-step zig-zag stitch:
I had purchased the 70B/C/D/DD pattern because back when I bought it I didn’t know if I was a 70 or 75 band. After making a few Merckwaerdigh patterns I am pretty sure I am a 75B in European sizing. I traced 70C and lengthened the back band 3/4″ to make it a 75B:
I also interfaced the center front with sheer cup lining, though I didn’t extend it all the way to the bottom so the bottom of the band gapes a little. After I finished this bra I made a separate piece from the band for the sheer cup lining. Notice how it extends halfway into the curve where the cup is sewn:
One thing I also like about the Make Bra patterns is that the seam allowances are included, but instead of being lines they are shaded in:
Overall I’m happy with this bra. I noticed after making this that I’m going to have to take a 1/2″ dart in the bottom cup along the wireline, for some reason all bras gape here on me. I think I’m a little hollow in that area. I will also have to interface the bridge properly next time to make sure it is just the stretch of the fabric and not the draft causing the bottom of the bridge to be too wide. But aside from that it fits really well! The foldover elastic is a huge timesaver and makes working with foam much easier. This pattern also works with woven as well as knit fabrics (though obviously you will still need to use a sturdy knit/power net/techsheen for the band) and instructions are included in the pattern for how to adjust the pattern for use with woven fabrics.
I think this has potential as a strapless bra with the addition of silicon gripper elastic at the upper edge and bottom band, some boning at the side, and a little tightening of the band.