Yet another bra completed today. Can you tell that spring is around the corner?
Merckwaerdigh BHS10 is my favorite wireless bra pattern. It doesn’t do as much for my shape as an underwired pattern, but it is extremely comfortable and doesn’t squish me flat. Makes a really nice weekend bra.
The lace is from the Etsy seller raincrazy133. She is very helpful, has a stunning selection of Euro-style stretch laces in her shop, and the shipping is surprisingly reasonable. The bridge and lower cups are Duoplex. The lace is underlined with sheer cup lining from Bramaker’s Supply. The back band is an ivory Techsheen powernet that was part of a Bramaker’s Supply bra kit. The elastics and back closure are from Sew Sassy. I used a 1/8″ elastic from Fashion Sewing Supply to stabilize the upper cups and scalloped edge of the straps.
I recently discovered through trial and error that I get the best fit in Pinup Girls and Merckwaerdigh patterns if I start with a 32C and take in the upper cup edge 1/4″-1/2″ and lengthen the back band 3/8″ (or in the case of Merckwaerdigh, remove only 3/8″ instead of 3/4″ from the band). I also find bra making much easier if I tweak the pattern based on always underlining using the non-stretch sheer cup lining instead of trying to adjust every time for stretch. The sheer cup lining is an absolute necessity in my lingerie toolbox.
One thing I did differently for this particular bra was use Sigrid’s tutorial on interfacing stretch fabrics. This stretch lace was embroidered on a stretch mesh so it had a rather delicate stretch and definitely had the potential to ripple when underlined. There’s really no rippling and a little prep made sewing this a lot easier.