Second revision of the Style Arc Wendy pants. They go well with my Robin top.
Instead of RPL I made them out of a stretch bengaline from Fabric.com. It is 65% polyester, 30% rayon, and 5% lycra and has about 25% stretch. I was expecting something completely nasty at $2.79/yard, but it isn’t too bad. Not as nice as wool or something from Gorgeous Fabrics or Emma One Sock, but holds its shape well and has plenty of stretch. Kind of wish I had bought more. It doesn’t cling and has a good weight and drape to it. It has slightly more stretch than my purple RPL did. (BTW, can you believe that Fabric.com had this listed as “dry clean”? Right…)
It depends on the type and weave of the fabric, but in general I think the ideal fabrics for this have at least 4% lycra or 20% stretch. Someone who is slimmer hipped compared to their waist measurement may be able to get away with 15%.
The front velcro closure is from The Green Pepper. Their velcro has a great hold and I highly recommend it.
Now for the other views:
The back crotch curve is completely out of the envelope, no additions/subtractions or shape changes anywhere.
I started over completely with this pattern as far as fitting changes go. I did the original straight-to-bootcut style adjustment, adding a total of 4″ to the bottom leg width. I also lengthened them 2.5″.
I also shortened them 0.5″ in the mid-thigh area. I have a suspicion my legs are slightly shorter crotch to knee and slightly longer knee to ankle and that’s why they get hung up in the back.
After making a few Style Arc pants I think they run narrow in the calf and that’s another reason why I was having issues with the back. For this revision I added an additional 1.5″ total width to the back leg only, starting above the knee. You can kind of see in the photos below how I just spliced the paper onto the original leg widening.
I compared the front to my Sewaholic Thurlow pattern and noticed that while the back crotch curves were very similar, the Sewaholic pattern had a shorter, shallower crotch curve in the front. I added 0.5″ width to the front crotch curve, tapering to nothing at the end of the “hook”. I also removed 1/4″ height from the front crotch curve.
To preserve the width at the waist I removed 1/2″ from the side seam of the front leg only.
I made NO adjustments to the waistband pattern pieces this time, despite being smaller waisted than the sizing indicates. Instead, I chose to zig-zag 3/4″ elastic to the inner waistband, stretching it very slightly to pull in some of the fullness. This brings it in at the waist, preventing gaping, and gives more support to the upper edge of the waistband while still leaving it wide enough to fit over my hips. It looks slightly gathered when not worn but is almost invisible when I put them on and helps keep tops tucked in better. It worked out really well, but next time I would stretch it a little more when attaching it at the back waist. Adding the elastic was key for making these pants wearable (and able to be easily pulled on).
I’m thrilled to finally have a good pull-on pants pattern to work with. Always nice to have a pants pattern that looks professional but takes only 2-3 hours to make and is super comfortable to wear. I feel confident enough in this patter now to cut into the real stretch bengaline sent to me all the way from Australia.