Clothing Engineer

I received an especially thorough message about my dry-clean only cotton shirt post,
so I thought I’d post it here in addition to adding it as a comment on
that post. Check out the part on how people used to use gasoline as a home dry-cleaning solvent!

That dry clean only label is a legal thing. Not everyone knows the
properties of fabrics or how to do laundry. If there is a “dry clean
only” label on the garment, both the manufacturer and the retailer are
protected from financial loss and nuisance lawsuits . If somebody
washes, say a rayon, garment in hot water and throws it in the dryer,
it will be ruined and she will return it to the store. More problems
for everyone. It’s easier to use a label which the dry cleaner, the
supposed expert, will understand.

I wash “dry-clean only” garments all the time, with no ill
effects…but…I know what I’m doing and I know I have no recourse
should I ruin something. I have only ruined one garment in 20 years and
it was cheap, so cheap it did not pay to dry-clean it!

I will wash some, but not all, wools I am about to sew, so that I
may wash them in the future, cashmere sweaters (gentle cycle with cold
water) with never a problem, light-colored silks (only if shrinkage is
not an issue) etc. I could go on. In the past people did dry-cleaning
in the backyard with gasoline. Old sewing books give instructions on
how to do it. A neighbor of my father’s blew up the back porch of the
house, doing this. We have safer solvents now!

I always dry-clean anything with a lining, anything tailored, dark
silks, anything made of multiple fabrics or with indeterminate trim.

In general, if you want to take a risk on washing a “dry-clean
only” garment which does not fall into the above categories, simply
wash it in cold water and hang to dry. You’re right, that shirt could
most likely be washed at home!

A fellow PR member
posted a comment on my review for my Burda 1/07 #105 blouse asking how
I removed the excess sleeve ease. I posted a link to an excerpt of Sandra Betzina’s book Fast Fit on Google Books that describes how to do this. (Of course if you find the excerpt helpful I suggest you actually buy Fast Fit - it isn’t very expensive and has a lot of good ideas inside.

Edward Hamilton Books

Tons
of general topic books, and about 100 sewing books listed. Most are
very heavily discounted (but some may be older editions). 
Shipping is reasonable as well; $3.50 flat fee with $0.40 per
item.  The titles seem to veer towards beginners, but there’s some
advanced level books in there as well.  I’ve been ordering from
them for a very long time and have been very happy with their service.

I’ve been subscribing for a year now to Burda World of Fashion
magazine. I consider it worth every penny of the $72 I pay for it. But
starting out with Burda magazine patterns was not always an easy
process, since I was so used to American patterns. Here’s a few things
I’ve learned along the way that

• The pieces that need to be
  interfaced are marked by shading on the fashion fabric layout. This
  goofed me up the first couple of garments, since every American pattern
  I’ve tried has had a separate layout diagram for interfacing. Burda
  does everyone on one layout diagram.
• Any straight pieces (like
  fly facings, drawstrings, bias strips) are created by measuring by hand
  rather than having a dedicated pattern piece. They are marked a, b, c,
  etc instead of having a pattern number. (I can only imagine how much
  more confusing the road map of pattern lines would be if these pieces
  were also traced.)
• If the hand-measured pieces say “incl.
  allowance” that means the required seam allowance is already included.
  If “incl. allowance” isn’t in the description for these additional
  pieces, make sure you add them!
• Pants usually include in the
  description where the waistband hits. It will usually list it as “upper
  edge of waist=waist” or “upper edge of waist=3/4″ below waist”. On me,
  a pattern that has “upper edge of waist=waist” usually hits right below
  my bellybutton.
• Make sure you take very, very accurate
  measurements before cutting.  Since Burda includes less ease than
  Vogue or McCall’s you must cut according to your
  measurements. Sometimes I cut in between the lines if it is supposed to
  be a very fitted style, since I fall in between some of the
  measurements on Burda’s size chart.
• I haven’t seen anything
  official on Burda’s website or in the magazine, but from experience
  making a few fitted shirts/blouses Burda seems to draft for a C or full
  B cup. American companies such as Vogue, McCall’s, and Kwik Sew draft
  for a B cup. If you are an A or smaller B cup you should really
  consider learning how to do a SBA (small bust alteration). Hungry
  Zombie Couture has an extremely good tutorial on small bust alterations.
• Stoffbruch=fold.  Webkanten=selvage.
• Using
  a serrated tracing wheel and dressmaker carbon paper is the easiest and
  quickest way to transfer markings onto fabric. The dressmaker’s carbon
  paper also washes out of most fabrics. (Test first on a scrap piece of
  paper!)
• Consider the instructions a guide rather than tutorial
  on how to construct the garment. Burda is probably not the best way for
  a beginner to learn about sewing - Kwik Sew is much better for this. I
  am a very visual sewer, so the lack of pictures really stumps me
  sometimes. I rely on the instructions in other patterns (like Kwik Sew)
  and in books such as Power Sewing.
• The pattern layouts are very…efficient.  I usually get a bit more than recommended.

Perhaps
the biggest stumbling block for new Burda magazine readers are seam
allowances. Burda does not include seam allowances in their magazine
patterns - they must be manually added. There’s a few different ways of
doing this:

• Use pattern tracing cloth and a seam tracer.
  This is my favorite method, and I use it exclusively now. First I make
  sure both the pattern sheet and the pattern tracing cloth are ironed
  flat, then place the cloth on top of the pattern sheet and trace the
  outline for my pattern. I then take the seam tracer and go over the
  traced pattern line. Voila! Perfect seam allowances. It only takes a
  minute and is very accurate. The seam tracers come in 1/4″ and 5/8″
  sizes. The pattern tracing cloth can be found in the interfacing
  section of any JoAnn Fabrics store. It usually comes in a 36″ width,
  and during sales it can be bought for around $1/yard. Pencil rolls over
  it very smoothly, which means if you make a mistake tracing it can be
  easily erased.
• Eyeball the seam allowances while cutting. I tried this method, and it was a disaster because being off by 1/4″ in one area can really mess up the fit.
• Use a ruler and chalk, and mark off 5/8″ all around the pattern. This will work, but is extremely time-consuming.
• Use a rotary cutter with adjustable guide. Someone suggested this to me on Pattern Review.  I have yet to try it because I can’t find this guide attachment.
• Use transfer paper and a serrated tracing wheel.
  I have also tried this method, and it is ok, but I prefer using the
  pattern tracing cloth. The only transfer paper I could find needed to
  be taped together to fit the pattern sheet width, which make it awkward
  to use. Using a serrated tracing wheel is handier than a smooth one
  because it tends to roll over the paper easier.

The first
few traced patterns are going to be quite challenging, and probably not
very accurate. It is very confusing at first to keep track of which
line is which! What I usually do is study the shape of the pattern
pieces before tracing. That way I have an idea of where to go and which
markings to pay attention to. Sometimes after I cut out the pattern
piece I compare it to the pattern sheet just to make sure everything is
marked off.

When I started sewing as a college sophomore I had a limited budget,
but managed to create some beautiful clothes for a minimal amount of
cash. The key is to be organized and watch the sales. 
By thinking ahead and doing a little record-keeping, you can have fun
sewing fashionable garments on a shoestring budget.

1. Always browse the clearance racks. This
   is obvious, but every time you go into a fabric store, browse the
   clearance section. There are tons of ugly polyester creations to sort
   through, but at my local Jo-Ann Fabrics I’ve been able to pick up silk
   for $2/yard and 100% cotton stretch twill for $1/yard. At the cutting
   counter of some Jo-Ann’s, they will offer the rest of the bolt at a
   discount if there isn’t much left after they’ve measured out your
   order. Another plus to clearance fabric? It allows you to test patterns
   and create very cheap “wearable muslins”.
2. Inventory all on-hand fabric. When there is a sale on thread you can stock up on matching thread for fabric you’ve already bought.  I’ve posted a printable fabric inventory sheet that has a section in each entry for swatches.  This is also useful to have when buying linings and trim on sale.
3. Consider subscribing to the Burda magazine.
   Even though it is $70/year, this is an amazing value because it
   includes anywhere from 30 to 50 patterns per issue. Usually there’s
   plus sizes included as well as a few children’s styles. As a plus, Burda includes
   some of the most fashion-forward styles I’ve ever seen - at least six
   months ahead of American pattern fashion, and at least a year ahead of
   anything in a department store. Even though the styles tend to be very
   trendy and European, there are also plenty of classic styles included
   that make excellent basic-wardrobe pieces.
4. Buy interfacing in bulk.
   Just about any sewing project requires interfacing. Jo-Ann Fabrics has
   50% off all interfacing sales every few months, and this is when I
   usually stock up. Most shirts, blouses, pants, jackets, and skirts use
   light to mid-weight interfacing, so buy a little of every light and
   mid-weight interfacing on the shelf. This way you have some on hand for
   your next project, and don’t have to spend more than absolutely
   required. The interfacing section also has pattern-tracing cloth - make
   sure you pick up plenty of this for tracing out Burda patterns.
5. Buy button grab-bags. Even
   though buttons aren’t a very cost-prohibitive part of sewing, buying
   them when they are not on sale adds up. Places such as Home Sew have button assortments available by weight (like 1/4 pound), as does eBay.  Another place to look for button assortments is an estate or tag sale.

This weekend I created a fabric inventory chart to help myself
manage my ever-growing fabric inventory. It has write-in spaces for
fabric content, yardage, price, care instructions, notes, etc with an
area large enough to attach a swatch to. It makes pattern browsing, not
to mention fabric care, a lot easier.

Fabric Inventory Chart (PDF, 90KB)

Sportswear jackets and blazers made out stretch wovens have been out
for a few years now, especially in the designer lines like Ralph
Lauren. I love the idea. The only thing I never understood is how the
lining for these garments worked - did they have a special stretch
fabric they used for the lining? Did they just make the lining out of
the normal fabrics, but a little larger than usual? Did they even have
a lining?

According to the August 2007 issue of Threads, the secret to lining jackets made out of a stretch woven fabric is to cut the lining pieces on the bias.  They recommend using Ambiance Bemberg,
which is what I always use for linings now. It anti-static and 100%
rayon, so it breathes as well. I usually order my Ambiance Bemberg
lining from Fabric.com
- they are reliable and seem to keep a good selection of colors in stock.

I’m glad I found this tip. An upcoming project is a blazer
that will be made out of a 100% cotton twill with a little bit of
spandex in it. (Found it on the clearance rack at Joann’s at one of
their 50% off sales - I think it was only $1/yard!) I was going to try
some of the stretch linings from Sawyer Brook,
but was hesitating because of the very limited colors, and the fact
that most are made out of polyester. Why spend the money on buying a
beautiful 100% wool fabric for a suit jacket if you are just going to
ruin the breathability by lining it with cheap polyester?

According to Threads,
using one of these stretch lining fabrics may not work anyway because
of the difference in the amount of stretch between the fashion fabric
and lining fabric.

Last week when it came to hemming my knit tank top, I realized that
I only had one spool of thread in the color I was using. I like the
professional look of a double needle, so I didn’t want to resort to
using a zig-zag stitch.

It suddenly occurred to me to wind a
second bobbin and use that instead of another spool of thread for the
second needle. It worked like a charm, and I can’t believe I didn’t
think of this before.

When I first started sewing, I fortunately had access to a wide
range of notions at home (thanks to my mother) but wanted to purchase
my own.  The problem is knowing where to start! 

While
at the sewing store it can be overwhelming seeing the amount of tools
available, and clever marketing makes it hard to judge how useful they
really are.  I’ve included an estimate of cost as well as places
where they can be purchased.  I didn’t include machine needles,
fabric, thread, etc because those can change depending on what you are
making. 

These are the sewing tools I use for almost every project: 

1.  Sewing machine with a zig-zag stitch. Don’t
scrimp and get a straight-stitch only machine.  While a straight
stitch is perfectly fine for most beginner level patterns using woven
fabrics, knits require zig-zag stitch in order to remain stretchy at
the seams.  As an added advantage, the zig-zag stitch can be used
to finish the seams on fray-prone fabrics such as linen and
denim.  Sewing machines are not considered notions, but
nonetheless it is the important tool to have when making your own
clothing. 

Cost: Less than $100 to over $2000. 

Where to buy: I
strongly suggest going to a local sewing machine dealer, especially if
you are purchasing a more expensive machine.  Dealers can usually
service any model they sell in-house, and most provide free training to
help you get started using the machine.  Also, if you are short on
cash, there will usually be a few used models available. 

2.  Magnetic pincushion and pins.  Using
a magnetic pincushion is a matter of safety as well as
convenience.  While they are not as attractive as the traditional
tomato pincushion, they make up for it by holding more pins more
securely.  Usually magnetic pincushions come with some pins
included.  For pins, I recommend getting a combination of silk
pins and quilting pins as well as the traditional tailoring pins. 
Silk pins are thinner and sharper than tailoring pins, and are useful
when working with silks and other delicate fabrics.  Quilting pins
are longer and feature a ball head, which makes them very easy to
grab. 

Cost: Less than $10. 

Where to buy: Your local sewing/quilting store or Joann Fabrics. 

3.  Pattern weights. Pattern
weights are extremely useful for anchoring pattern pieces when doing
layout and cutting.  Some people use them in place of pins,
especially for hard-to-sew fabrics such silk charmeuse. They are also
great to have when doing pattern layout with the window open on a
breezy day!  You have the choice of purchasing commercial pattern
weights, or making your own.  The main advantage to using
commercial pattern weights is that they usually have little feet to
keep them from sliding.  Some even come in kits However, they can
be expensive.  To make your own pattern weights, go to your local
hardware store and search for large, heavy metal washers.  Get
about 4 or 5 per each pattern weight you want.  When you get home,
use masking tape to bind washers together. 

Cost: A few dollars, if you make your own. 

Where to buy: Local hardware store (to make your own); local sewing/quiliting shops, JoAnn Fabrics

4.  Creative Grids® Non-slip ruler. This
is my favorite layout ruler.  It is made out of clear plastic,
with the measurement lines and grids printed in both white and black
for maximum visibility on all fabric colors. I use the 6.5″x24.5″ size,
which is long enough to accurately measure from the selvage to
grainline on most layout pattern pieces, while at the same time being
small enough to easily handle.  What sets this ruler apart is the
non-slip dots.  When you put this ruler down on your fabric, it
will not slide, thus allow you to adjust pattern pieces until they are
perfectly aligned to the grainline.  This is a quality ruler that
will last you many years. 

Cost: $20 to $25 (6.5″x24.5″ size)

Where to buy: Local independent quilting and sewing stores.  Go to http://www.creativegridsusa.com/wheretobuy.asp to locate a store in your area. 

5. Tailor’s chalk.
What’s great about tailor’s chalk is that if you make a marking
mistake, you can just brush it off with your finger or a damp
cloth.  There’s less worries using tailor’s chalk than a fabric
marker, since it never bleeds into the fabric.  Tailor’s chalk
usually comes in white and blue so it can be seen on all fabric
colors. 

Cost: About $4

Where to buy: Just about any sewing or quilting store. 

6. Dressmaker’s carbon.
You’ll need this when you want to transfer buttonholes, darts, and
other markings from the pattern pieces.  Dressmaker’s carbon
usually comes in a little pack of multiple colors.  If you have
one, use a tracing wheel to transfer the markings.  Otherwise, a
coin will work in a pinch. The markings will come out in the first
washing.  Sometimes it is also listed under “tracing paper”. 
Dressmaker’s carbon is reusable, which means a pack of it will last a
long time.  I’ve been using the same pack for over a year
now. 

Cost: About $4/pack. 

Where to buy: Clotilde, Local JoAnn Fabrics store. 

7. Sewing scissors.
These scissors look like most “normal” scissors. Mine are made
completely out of metal, and are small enough to handle thread cutting,
seam clipping, and most normal sewing tasks.  Keep them inside a
pouch to make sure they don’t get damaged between projects. 
Usually the blades range from 4″ to 5″.  Get whatever size you
feel most comfortable with.  There should be no problems keeping
your scissors sharp when used strictly for sewing purposes.  Just
make sure they are never used to cut metal. 

Cost: $4 for a basic pair to $32 for a pair of Ginghers. 

Where to buy: Any sewing store. 

8.  Spring-loaded dressmaker’s shears. Dressmaker’s
shears have a special bend that helps keep the blade parallel to the
table when cutting. These scissors will save your hands when it comes
to cutting.  The spring inside the handles helps with blade
motion.  Get the longest blade length possible. 

Cost: $15 to $30.  This is where those 50% off any one item coupons at JoAnn’s come in handy. 

Where to buy: JoAnn Fabrics, Nancy’s Notions. 

9.  Sewing needles.
Most garment sewing projects, especially those out of woven fabrics,
require some amount of hand-sewing.  Buttons, hems, and shoulder
pads are some of the areas in garment construction that require
hand-sewing.  In some instances, hand-sewing accomplishes tasks
that would be impossible to accomplish on the machine. 
Hand-basted stitches are usually easier to remove than machine-basted
stitches. 

Cost: Very inexpensive.  A pack of 20 is usually less than $2.  One needle will last through several projects. 

Where to buy: JoAnn Fabrics or your local sewing/quilting shop. 

10. Pressing ham.
Pressing is one of the most important parts of sewing.  This tool
allows you to shape your seams and darts so they form into a gentle
curve, instead of a flattened surface. 

Cost: Less than $15

Where to buy: JoAnn Fabrics, Clotilde, Nancy’s Notions.

I absolutely love my subscription to Burda World of Fashion…with
the exception of tracing out the patterns. They are piled on top of one
another and require good lighting in order to see the different colored
lines clearly. But worst of all, they don’t include seam allowances.

I’ve read on Pattern Review
that some people just add the seam allowances when they cut, but this
seems too inaccurate to me.  Sewing requires such precise
measurements that having a seam allowance off on a pattern piece by
even 1/8″ can make a difference in how it fits.  I’ve tried going
around the pattern with a ruler and tailoring chalk, but it takes a
painfully long amount of time.  I found a tool that will allow you
to easily and accurately add seam 1/4″ and 5/8″ seam allowances onto
your pattern pieces.  Best of all, it’s cheap.  It is called the Seam Tracer, and is about $3 from Amazon.com.  Basically it consists of two pencils with a two hard rubber holders that space out the pencils to an even 1/4″ or 5/8″.

You
could probably get a similar result of the 1/4″ seam tracer by just
putting two pencils together with a rubber band, but the 5/8″ seam
tracer is indispensable.  I’m surprised I don’t see these seam
tracers in more places.  Seam Tracer from Amazon.com.