This knit maxi dress has a really attractive cut. The skirt has a little bit of positive ease at the hips and gently tapers in a small amount below the thighs before flaring out again. It doesn’t give the most walking room if you have a long stride but it looks very elegant and won’t overwhelm more petite figures. This dress is long. It actually hits the floor when I’m not wearing heels. I’m 5’8.5″ (174cm) tall with average to slightly long waisted proportions, so if you are more petite you will definitely need to shorten this dress…especially if you want to wear flats with it! The straps of the sleeveless version are wide enough to cover most bra straps.
My major style alteration was removing those yoke and center front/back style lines. It just didn’t make sense to keep them when I was using a large print, and trying to pattern match would only make my life more difficult for no good reason. I temporarily joined the back yoke to the front and back yoke to the back, traced the pieces, then traced them again and attached the pieces together so I could cut everything out on a single layer without having to flip the pattern pieces over.
My fitting adjustments were:
- Lengthened between bust and waist 1″
- Lengthened between waist and thighs 1″
- Lengthened between knee and ankle 1″
- Broad back alteration: 3/8″ length, 3/4″ width
- 3/8″ forward shoulder alteration
- Added 1/2″ width to the sleeves
For my white/pink version I lengthened the hem 1″, but it was not at all necessary. Since my white/pink jersey had no lengthwise stretch I knew my black version would be way too long, so I removed the length I added between knee and ankle.
My first version was a thin rayon jersey with only mechanical stretch:
My second version (the black print) was a 4-way stretch jersey which was part of a free Fabric Mart bundle. Based on the drape I am almost certain it is either rayon or a rayon/cotton blend mixed with some lycra.
When constructing this I used iron-on, tear-away stabilizer on the armholes and around the neckline. With a dress this long the risk of gaping armholes and necklines from the fabric stretching everything down was rather high, so I attached the bands on my regular sewing machine using a triple stretch stitch. The stabilizer prevented the fabric from warping as I sewed everything in place, and the triple stretch stitch gave some flexibility to the seam while ensuring the seam would not stretch out. I topstitched using a coverstitch.
I found the neck and armhole bands a little long. I shortened the neck band 1.5″. I think I shortened the armhole bands 1/2″.
I want to make one more Jacinta. What do you think – sleeveless or with sleeves?