This was a quick Sunday evening make.
I used a hot pink lace bra kit from Merckwaerdigh’s Etsy shop:
- I underlined the upper/lower cups and wings of the band using a lightweight nude power mesh. (The power mesh also helps make the fit more predictable when you’re using a variety of laces, which can vary in their degree of stretch.)
- When I topstitched the front diagonal seams I used zigzag stitch and trimmed close to the stitching. I think it makes the seam less bulky than a straight stitch topstitch, and it is also more appropriate due to the stretch of the fabric. The seams are unbelievably smooth.
- The kit included 1/8″ clear elastic for stabilizing the upper edge of the cup. Words cannot begin to describe how much I loathe clear elastic in this width. It is fiddly and tends to get caught between the front toes of my presser foot. I sewed it on, but just barely.
- Due to my hatred of the 1/8″ clear elastic I stabilized the scallops of the straps with some 1/4″ clear elastic I had in my stash. I sewed the elastic to the straps after I attached the lower/upper cup to the power bar, and stopped the elastic just below the intersection of the upper cup with the power bar.
- I sewed the 1/2″ bottom band elastic with two rows of narrow zigzag stitches, one at the the upper edge and one at the lower edge. In my opinion it keeps things in place a little better than doing just one wide zigzag. The lace is so busy that the stitching is pretty much hidden.
- My elastic was a little wide so at the lowest point of the cup curve I had to trim away 1/8″ so it didn’t get in the way of folding down the channeling.
I started off with a 32C/70C (aka 75B tracing lines with the back band shortened a total of 1.5″). My fitting adjustments were:
- Lowering the center front of the bridge 3/8″ and adding 3/8″ to the top of the cup curve of the back band. (This rotates the cup to be lower at the center front and higher at the sides, which is what works best for me.)
- I also pinched out 3/4″ from the bottom center front of the bridge.
- When I was trying it on to check the fit of the band I ended up removing 2 cm (3/4″) from each wing, making the final size of the bra a 30D.
Thoughts after making this:
- I LOVE the look of the band, with the lace scallops and how it curves up in the front.
- I like the little V-shaped notch at the center front gore. It gives just a little less coverage, which makes it work better with wrap dresses.
- Even though the seams are diagonal the shaping of this bra works for me. I think the flexibility of the stretch lace, in combination with the draft, helps a lot. (Non-stretch lace, diagonally seamed cups look terrible on me – they often give the orange-in-a-glass look where the cup appears both too big and too small. By too small I mean bulging at the neckline, and by too big I mean wrinkles in the cup, especially at the apex.)
- I’m thinking of tracing the 80B next time. The bra is definitely wearable, but the seaming passes about 1/4″ below the apex rather than directly over it and the cup feels like it is on the verge of being too small. It doesn’t matter when I wear a wrap dress since my silk charmeuse Alisha slip, with its self-lined cups, completely hide the seaming. But I still think the placement is a little off.
- I wish I had turned the picots of the elastic inward so they would be hidden rather than outward and visible.
My next project will be the Style Arc Jett jacket. Now that the zipper for it came in, my Ziggi jacket is done, Tom found me a “beater” for commuting on the salty, slushy roads during the winter my mind is at ease and I can focus on a more challenging project!