Style Arc Jett Jacket

Pattern Overview

The Jett jacket from Style Arc is a closely fitted jacket with raglan sleeves, two piece sleeves with an elbow dart and design lines, and a wide collar. The tape of the zipper is exposed when unzipped and hidden under a flap when zipped up.

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This Rick Owens biker jacket was Style Arc’s inspiration piece. The Rick Owens jacket has some zippered welt pockets and an undersleeve cut from a matching rib knit. It also has the lining rather than a fashion fabric facing visible when the collar is worn open. I chose to use a self fabric facing because I thought this fabric is beautiful and should be shown off as much as possible!

I stayed up until 1AM last night finishing my new Jett jacket. It was one of those projects where once I picked it up I couldn’t put it down.

Photos

For the first two photos below I used a diffused external flash (Canon Speedlite 430EX II) pointed at the ceiling and bounce card. The only other light in the room was a single incandescent lamp.

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For the next two I used a diffused flash only.

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Here’s the Jett worn open. Not my favorite look. The heavy zipper prevents it from draping nicely. I had this same issue with the Marie jacket.

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I wore it to work today with my Ali skirt. As soon as I got home from work I rushed to try to take advantage of what dim light remained outside. This is the one photo I got without having to resort to flash. I had my 50mm f/1.8 lens set wide open to f/2, the shutter speed set pretty low (I think 1/40?), and the ISO bumped up to 6400:

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A minute or two later it was like this, and I gave up. (I used direct diffused flash for this photo.)

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Close-ups

Here’s some of photos of certain sections of the jacket so you can get a better sense of how the pieces go together.

Outside side of right front:

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Wrong side of right front. Notice how the zipper tape is butted against the facing seam.

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Inside of left collar seam junction and topstitching:

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Right collar junction:

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Facing/lining/back hem facing junction. (Topstitching appears crooked due to fold of fabric.)

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Materials

I used this silk/wool twill from Gorgeous Fabrics.

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I originally bought it to make a dress but felt like the drape, shine, and weight were more suited for a jacket. So it sat in my stash for 1.5 years waiting for the perfect pattern. I had barely two yards of it to work with so I worked very carefully while cutting it out on a single layer. It was nice to sew and responded well to pressing. I stitched it with Mettler thread in color 958. ( Sidenote: if you need Mettler thread or any other notion in a hurry, call up Apple Annie Fabrics. I emailed her the day before Thanksgiving with my request and the package arrived on Black Friday! She has told me that packages usually arrive to the West Coast in two days. The shipping is reasonably priced too.)

The instructions don’t make any references to interfacing. I debated about using it or not and decided to go for it. I interfaced the center front pieces, collar, back hem facing, and sleeve hems with Pro-Sheer Elegance from Fashion Sewing Supply. It helped support the topstitching, weight of the zipper, and the fold of the hems. It also helped stabilize the twill weave of the fabric when I was constructing the collar and sewing the hem in place. Normally I would interface the side front as well, but since the side front is eased into the center front piece at the bust adding interfacing would have made the fabric bulky and impacted my ability to press and shape that seam.

I used a medium gray superfine Bemberg lining from Cleaner’s Supply for my lining. The Cleaner’s Supply Bemberg lining is a little heavier and has more stability to it than Ambiance Bemberg, which makes it perfect for jackets and lighter coats. The zipper is a YKK #5 brass zipper in color 299 (Wild Plum) from Zipper Stop. I shortened it to fit.

Fit

Fitting adjustments to my size 8 were:

  • Lengthened between bust and waist 1.5″
  • Took in the center back princess seams 1.5″ at the waist
  • Added 1/2″ to the waist at the front side seam
  • Added 2.5″ to the hip. It fits, but barely. You can tell in the photos that it is riding up a little. If I made it again I would add another inch.
  • Lengthened the sleeves 1.5″ between shoulder and elbow
  • When I made up a muslin the bust felt a bit tight, so I added 3/8″ to the side front princess seam at the bust.
  • 3/8″ forward shoulder alteration
  • 3/4″ broad back alteration (upper back)
  • Added 1″ width to the sleeves

The one fitting issue I didn’t resolve was the extra fabric that sticks out by the back armhole. My best guess at fixing it would be to take in the upper back, but then I would lose the range of motion. Need to think about this one…

The fit of this jacket is quite snug. There’s barely 2″ (5cm) ease at the bust. It is definitely more formfitting than the Ziggi. If you want a looser Ziggi-like fit consider going up a size. Aside from taking in the back princess seams – which is a very normal Style Arc adjustment for me – I didn’t make any other alterations to the shaping. This is definitely the type of jacket where you’re going to want to layer a tank or tee under it and not something like a chunky sweater. I’m wearing it over my merino wool jersey Molly top.

Pattern instructions

The instructions for this jacket…were not good. The technical drawings were great, but I felt like certain things were missing and/or out of order with the written section. I’m currently working with Style Arc to straighten them out. Certain parts of the construction are complicated enough that you’ll definitely want to leave out your pattern pieces while sewing this up.

General construction tips

If you are sewing a seam into which something else will be inserted at a right angle (like the facing into the hem and collar) don’t stitch to the end of the fabric. Instead stop exactly 3/8″ (1cm) (or whatever your seam allowance is) before the raw edge and backstitch.

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This is the equivalent of clipping the seam just as you are sewing into it. The backstitching is crucial because you’re going to be pulling on that seam when you go to pivot the fabric, and you want to make sure that stitching is nice and secure.

Another useful tip: sew in the zipper and topstitch the center front panels after bagging out the jacket, not before. This will make your life much easier!

Collar/hem edge construction tutorial

Here’s how you perform the first step, which is bagging out the collar and hem edges.

Press back the center front piece along the foldline.

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Press the collar and hem edges along their foldline.

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Now fold the long edge so right sides are together.

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Mark the pivot point, which is 3/8″ from the horizontal cut edge below. I used a purple washable marker.

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Start sewing from the foldline of the long folded edge.

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Reduce your stitch length when you get about 1/2″ (1.5cm) before the pivot point. Stop sewing as soon as you get to the pivot point. Make sure your needle is down!

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Now lift your presser foot up, take some sharp, small scissors, and make a snip into the corner at a 45º angle. You want clip right into that corner, just like you would do if you were making a welt pocket.

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Now you’re going to take the folded edge of the fabric and pivot it out of the way to the left while keeping the bottom layer of fabric in place. Your goal is to get the raw edge of the long folded edge of the fabric aligned with that bottom layer. There will be a little tiny fold you’ll have to sew over, but if you cut the corner enough it will be minimal.

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Now sew that edge in place. To make things easier when you have to insert the lining, make sure you stop 3/8″ before the end of the bottom layer (this is marked with a notch on the pattern.)

You’ll end up with this when you’re done.

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Trim the corner and turn it inside out. This is what the edge looks like unpressed:

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And pressed:

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I hope that made sense…I had less than 5 hours of sleep last night!

31 thoughts on “Style Arc Jett Jacket

  1. Wow! I have to confess I’ve been waiting eagerly to see this ever since you said you were going to sew it. I wondered if you’d put it aside in favor of pretty bras and of course The Dress. This exceeds my expectations! What a great fabric choice. It looks very nice on you and so different from the biker vibe of the line drawing. You always come up with fabric / pattern combos that work really well. All your tips will come in handy when I sew this up. Just have to choose my fabric…

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    1. I had a lot of stumbling blocks with this particular project before I even started! First I had trouble choosing a fabric, then I didn’t know what to do about the contrast, lining, and interfacing, then I had to wait for the zipper to arrive. Then little unrelated things kept popping up. But once I got everything together and actually started sewing it came together really well.

      Hah, I haven’t even started on the wedding dress muslin yet! I was waiting for when I take a chunk of vacation time later on this month.

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  2. Ps so pleased you’re working with Style Arc on the instructions. Honestly, they should pay you for the tutorials you post. (When the instructions came as a separate sheet I used to take them to bed and reread them till I could really understand what is going on, but now you have to cut them off the big sheet I don’t get round to it so easily). I’ll use your interfacing process as my guide. Thanks!

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    1. There’s a couple of other tricky parts, like when you attach the collar and side front panel. I have my work cut out for me with this project!

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  3. Hey! Thanks so much for taking the time to write out some detailed instructions. I looooved the look of this jacket and bought it right away, but actually have no experience with StyleArc patterns (though a decent amount of experience with irrational purchases, evidently).

    I have a much, much easier Meg raglan tee or two planned first (and a few other projects…) before I get to this jacket, but I’m glad this will be here when I’m ready.

    And your finished jacket, despite your troubles, looks awesome. That purple satin is a mental color, and I mean that in the very best way possible.

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  4. Your jacket looks gorgeous, the colour is just stunning on you! I had spotted this pattern too and was waiting for someone to sew it up as I wasn’t quite sure about it. It will definitely go in my next order and I’ll be referring to your tips while sewing it up too!

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  5. Wonderful, wonderful work! Amazing job! And thanks for the tips. I love Rick Owens jackets but the price! And went I’ve sent them, they seem sized for anime characters. I’ve been looking for a good pattern for awhile this looks to be the one!

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  6. Awesome jacket! I love the details you put in your write ups. I wish I could just get you tweak my patterns for fit as well as you are able to do for yours. I’m not as methodical and still have too many hit or miss projects where yours always seem spot on. I have recently started using the Style Arc patterns and in general love them, but the instructions are a bit lacking. I bought the Ziggy pattern based on your blog but haven’t tackled it yet. Please keep up the great work.

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    1. One of the reasons why I stick to mostly Style Arc patterns is that it allows me to get very familiar with the draft, and how I need to tweak that draft to fit me. Ever since I started sewing I have preferred to stick to fewer rather than more designers for that reason. I also really like the upper chest and bust fit of Style Arc. The Big 4 always seemed big and sloppy. I agree that the instructions have always been their biggest weakness.

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      1. I focus on Style Arc patterns for the exact same reason Anne. The cut suits my body better than any other brand, and consistency of their drafting makes fitting adjustments pretty straight forward. When it comes to instructions, I don’t mind fending for myself. If the construction is tricky, I just go ahead and sew a muslin to figure things out for myself.

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  7. Please keep the detailed instructions and pattern helps coming! Very inspirational–gives me the nudge I need to tackle a rather challenging project. Thanks.

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    1. Part of it is documenting the process for myself. I am a visual person so when I have to disassemble something I like taking lots of photos so I can remember how it is supposed to go back together. (And when you do a tutorial like this, by the time you finish writing everything down and editing the photos you really have it engrained in your brain!)

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  8. This is one my favorite makes of yours! Although they’re all superb 🙂 The color, style, and fit, I want this jacket! Thank you for the construction details, I know it isn’t easy (or fun) to take helpful photos throughout the whole thing but it is incredibly helpful.

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    1. I wouldn’t have gotten to where I am right now if it wasn’t for other people freely sharing their knowledge, and taking the time to post photos and tutorials. Though taking pictures with the 5DMIII one handed is very awkward!

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  9. What a stunning jacket! Anne, it looks absolutely marvellous. Thanks also for sharing the process, and for assisting Style Arc with their instructions! It is definitely their weakness. Thank goodness their drafting and styles are so great!

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  10. Wow what a fabric impact! Love that you’re talking about the lighting conditions (I need to learn more about this) as the sheen on your fabric would have been so hard to capture – the jacket is a fabulous pattern. I’m not half surprised you couldn’t put this one down 🙂

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  11. This jacket is just stunning and your detailed information is enough to spur me–a Style Arc newbie–to purchase this pattern and make it a project for early in the new year. Thank you for all the details you have shared and for being such an inspiration!

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  12. Hi, This is a FAB jacket, when I saw it I wanted to make it so much I bought the pattern from style arc. This is where it gets complicated though, I think i’ve followed the instructions but I seem to have a Front Facing piece left over and I don’t know what to do. it’s pattern piece number 6 if that helps. I couldn’t find anywhere else to ask what to do. Thank you.

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