The Jett jacket from Style Arc is a closely fitted jacket with raglan sleeves, two piece sleeves with an elbow dart and design lines, and a wide collar. The tape of the zipper is exposed when unzipped and hidden under a flap when zipped up.
This Rick Owens biker jacket was Style Arc’s inspiration piece. The Rick Owens jacket has some zippered welt pockets and an undersleeve cut from a matching rib knit. It also has the lining rather than a fashion fabric facing visible when the collar is worn open. I chose to use a self fabric facing because I thought this fabric is beautiful and should be shown off as much as possible!
I stayed up until 1AM last night finishing my new Jett jacket. It was one of those projects where once I picked it up I couldn’t put it down.
For the first two photos below I used a diffused external flash (Canon Speedlite 430EX II) pointed at the ceiling and bounce card. The only other light in the room was a single incandescent lamp.
For the next two I used a diffused flash only.
Here’s the Jett worn open. Not my favorite look. The heavy zipper prevents it from draping nicely. I had this same issue with the Marie jacket.
I wore it to work today with my Ali skirt. As soon as I got home from work I rushed to try to take advantage of what dim light remained outside. This is the one photo I got without having to resort to flash. I had my 50mm f/1.8 lens set wide open to f/2, the shutter speed set pretty low (I think 1/40?), and the ISO bumped up to 6400:
A minute or two later it was like this, and I gave up. (I used direct diffused flash for this photo.)
Here’s some of photos of certain sections of the jacket so you can get a better sense of how the pieces go together.
Outside side of right front:
Wrong side of right front. Notice how the zipper tape is butted against the facing seam.
Inside of left collar seam junction and topstitching:
Right collar junction:
Facing/lining/back hem facing junction. (Topstitching appears crooked due to fold of fabric.)
I used this silk/wool twill from Gorgeous Fabrics.
I originally bought it to make a dress but felt like the drape, shine, and weight were more suited for a jacket. So it sat in my stash for 1.5 years waiting for the perfect pattern. I had barely two yards of it to work with so I worked very carefully while cutting it out on a single layer. It was nice to sew and responded well to pressing. I stitched it with Mettler thread in color 958. ( Sidenote: if you need Mettler thread or any other notion in a hurry, call up Apple Annie Fabrics. I emailed her the day before Thanksgiving with my request and the package arrived on Black Friday! She has told me that packages usually arrive to the West Coast in two days. The shipping is reasonably priced too.)
The instructions don’t make any references to interfacing. I debated about using it or not and decided to go for it. I interfaced the center front pieces, collar, back hem facing, and sleeve hems with Pro-Sheer Elegance from Fashion Sewing Supply. It helped support the topstitching, weight of the zipper, and the fold of the hems. It also helped stabilize the twill weave of the fabric when I was constructing the collar and sewing the hem in place. Normally I would interface the side front as well, but since the side front is eased into the center front piece at the bust adding interfacing would have made the fabric bulky and impacted my ability to press and shape that seam.
I used a medium gray superfine Bemberg lining from Cleaner’s Supply for my lining. The Cleaner’s Supply Bemberg lining is a little heavier and has more stability to it than Ambiance Bemberg, which makes it perfect for jackets and lighter coats. The zipper is a YKK #5 brass zipper in color 299 (Wild Plum) from Zipper Stop. I shortened it to fit.
Fitting adjustments to my size 8 were:
- Lengthened between bust and waist 1.5″
- Took in the center back princess seams 1.5″ at the waist
- Added 1/2″ to the waist at the front side seam
- Added 2.5″ to the hip. It fits, but barely. You can tell in the photos that it is riding up a little. If I made it again I would add another inch.
- Lengthened the sleeves 1.5″ between shoulder and elbow
- When I made up a muslin the bust felt a bit tight, so I added 3/8″ to the side front princess seam at the bust.
- 3/8″ forward shoulder alteration
- 3/4″ broad back alteration (upper back)
- Added 1″ width to the sleeves
The one fitting issue I didn’t resolve was the extra fabric that sticks out by the back armhole. My best guess at fixing it would be to take in the upper back, but then I would lose the range of motion. Need to think about this one…
The fit of this jacket is quite snug. There’s barely 2″ (5cm) ease at the bust. It is definitely more formfitting than the Ziggi. If you want a looser Ziggi-like fit consider going up a size. Aside from taking in the back princess seams – which is a very normal Style Arc adjustment for me – I didn’t make any other alterations to the shaping. This is definitely the type of jacket where you’re going to want to layer a tank or tee under it and not something like a chunky sweater. I’m wearing it over my merino wool jersey Molly top.
The instructions for this jacket…were not good. The technical drawings were great, but I felt like certain things were missing and/or out of order with the written section. I’m currently working with Style Arc to straighten them out. Certain parts of the construction are complicated enough that you’ll definitely want to leave out your pattern pieces while sewing this up.
General construction tips
If you are sewing a seam into which something else will be inserted at a right angle (like the facing into the hem and collar) don’t stitch to the end of the fabric. Instead stop exactly 3/8″ (1cm) (or whatever your seam allowance is) before the raw edge and backstitch.
This is the equivalent of clipping the seam just as you are sewing into it. The backstitching is crucial because you’re going to be pulling on that seam when you go to pivot the fabric, and you want to make sure that stitching is nice and secure.
Another useful tip: sew in the zipper and topstitch the center front panels after bagging out the jacket, not before. This will make your life much easier!
Collar/hem edge construction tutorial
Here’s how you perform the first step, which is bagging out the collar and hem edges.
Press back the center front piece along the foldline.
Press the collar and hem edges along their foldline.
Now fold the long edge so right sides are together.
Mark the pivot point, which is 3/8″ from the horizontal cut edge below. I used a purple washable marker.
Start sewing from the foldline of the long folded edge.
Reduce your stitch length when you get about 1/2″ (1.5cm) before the pivot point. Stop sewing as soon as you get to the pivot point. Make sure your needle is down!
Now lift your presser foot up, take some sharp, small scissors, and make a snip into the corner at a 45º angle. You want clip right into that corner, just like you would do if you were making a welt pocket.
Now you’re going to take the folded edge of the fabric and pivot it out of the way to the left while keeping the bottom layer of fabric in place. Your goal is to get the raw edge of the long folded edge of the fabric aligned with that bottom layer. There will be a little tiny fold you’ll have to sew over, but if you cut the corner enough it will be minimal.
Now sew that edge in place. To make things easier when you have to insert the lining, make sure you stop 3/8″ before the end of the bottom layer (this is marked with a notch on the pattern.)
You’ll end up with this when you’re done.
Trim the corner and turn it inside out. This is what the edge looks like unpressed:
I hope that made sense…I had less than 5 hours of sleep last night!