Style Arc Jasmine Pants

Sunday evening project:

Style Arc Jasmine Pants
Style Arc Jasmine Pants
Style Arc Jasmine Pants
Style Arc Jasmine Pants
Style Arc Jasmine Pants
Style Arc Jasmine Pants
Style Arc Jasmine Pants
Style Arc Jasmine Pants

After a wardrobe purge this month I was in serious need of new pants. I realized while going through my clothes that that my favorite (and most frequently worn) pants are all stretch wovens. I think wearing mostly skirts and dresses to work for the past few years have made me less tolerant of sitting at a desk all day in non-stretch woven pants. I also prefer pants with a straight or slight bootcut leg, and since I hate having to tug down the legs after standing up I also like them to be a little on the roomy side. So with that in mind I decided to try the Style Arc Jasmine.

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The Jasmine pants are the Style Arc Linda’s big sister. They both use stretch woven fabric and have an almost identical leg shape (straight and around 18-20″ at the hem). However, instead of being a plain elastic waist pull-on pant like the Linda, the Jasmine has a front fly closure, traditional waistband, pockets, and a back yoke with darts. There’s also more design ease through the hip/thigh region, so you have more flexibility as to how much stretch is required from your fabric. The additional ease combined with the front fly closure and back yoke makes these a more friendly option than the Linda for pear shaped figures. I would describe the draft as slacks – somewhere between trousers (full and wrinkle-free) and jeans (slim and with lots of sitting ease wrinkles.)

For this pair I used this cotton/rayon/wool/lycra blend suiting from Fabric Mart:

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It is mid-weight and very crisp – very similar to new denim. Before they included it in their regular website offerings it was a $6.99/yard Julie’s Pick. It is very comfortable to wear, and the weight, color, and fiber content make it perfect for the colder than normal spring weather we’ve been having. It has about 25% stretch, with some given in the length as well as width. (Most of my stretch wovens seem to be in the 10-20% range.)

I finished the hems with a blind stitch using my Janome 6500P. I know some people have dedicated blind stitch machines, but I think my Janome does a pretty good job.

Style Arc Jasmine Pants
Style Arc Jasmine Pants

The pockets are one of my favorite design features for this pattern. The angular shape something you would see in a Marfy pattern.

Style Arc Jasmine Pants

I used hidden hook and eye closures instead of a button for the front closure. In addition to interfacing the front waistband I also interfaced the back yoke with Pro-Sheer Elegance.

When it came to finishing the inner edge of the waistband I had intended to fold back the inner seam allowance and very carefully stitch it in place. However, the angle and V of the back yoke made this really difficult to do neatly and accurately. I ended up using a method I learned from a Kwik Sew pattern: fold back the first few inches at the center front and either hand stitch or very carefully stitch in the ditch. Serge the edge of the rest of the waistband and secure it in place by stitching in the ditch (with the fabric straight out instead of folded). Does it look as neat and pretty as a folded edge? No, but it is a lot easier and just as secure. I never claimed this was a couture blog! As long as the edges are properly finished to prevent fraying I have zero f&*#s to give about what the inside of my garments look like.

Fitting adjustments:

  • Lengthened the legs 1″
  • Increased the depth by 1/4″ in the front and 3/4″ in the back
  • Added 1/4″ to the front crotch curve extension for my full thighs. It is a little bit too much for this particular pair, but as I mentioned before most of my stretch wovens are not as stretchy as this fabric.
  • For my light gray pair I took in the side seams 1″ at the hip, tapering to nothing just below the upper thigh.
  • Added 3″ width to the leg openings, making these pants more of a bootcut rather than a straight leg
  • Pinched out 1/2″ from the back inseam only, tapering to nothing at the side seam. I then stretched it to fit the front while sewing. This technically puts the back leg off-grain, but when I wear them it helps get rid of those diagonal drag lines from upper thigh to knee.
  • Took in each back darts 3/4″. To get rid of the bubble at the end I had to taper them quite a bit, which resulted in them being a little too long…
  • Took a 3/4″ tuck out of the back yoke to match the amount taken out of the back darts
  • Removed a 1/2″ vertical wedge from the back yoke at the waistline, tapering to nothing at the bottom of the yoke. This made it more curved.

After wearing these for a day I feel like the entire back piece is too wide, which makes the back wrinkles more pronounced.

I think I will handle this for next time by taking 3/4″ tuck out of the entire back, from the upper edge where it meets the yoke to the hem. I will revert to the original dart width as well.

17 thoughts on “Style Arc Jasmine Pants

    1. It depends on how picky you are! As long as they are an improvement over RTW I am happy. It helps to try different pattern companies. Some people have a Burda body, some are Vogue, some are best in Style Arc, etc

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  1. This is a good pattern for you; it looks great. I have a love hate relationship with stretch pant fabrics. You can never tell ahead of time how much they will stretch with wearing. I have found that contrary to the general advice I am better off with the pants being somewhat tight int he hip so that with a little bit of wearing they end up with enough room to be comfortable.
    Have you tried using a Hong Kong finish on the inner waistband? It’s such an elegant finish and lighter, easier and neater than folding back the edge.

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    1. Agreed. That’s my biggest problem with jeans – the topstitching makes it hard to adjust after the fact. And some fabrics stretch out more than others during the day. Cottons are especially unpredictable, which is why I never use sateen or cheap denim for pants anymore. Stretch bengaline and RPL doesn’t seem to have the same problem. Of course the negative ease at the hip that the Linda, Barb, Elle, etc have helps too.

      I have seen the Hong Kong finish in RTW. I usually just serge though because I already have it set up, and I usually don’t want to stop to make bias tape.

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  2. Pants fitting is so tricky! I admire your dedication and hope to return to my pant-sewing adventures sometime soon. These pants really look great – fit and all – but I’m sorry to hear they grew a bit as the day went on. I wonder if this is inevitable unless you use a high stretch fabric.

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    1. The growing thing is really common, especially with cotton/lycra wovens. Some fabrics are worse than others. These are not too bad but I would prefer that they felt as snug as when I first put them on. I notice that RPL and stretch bengaline seem to not be as prone to growing during wear. Some wools are ok too.

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  3. Hello – I’ve just recently found your blog, and enjoy reading your trouser posts as I think we have very similar shaped lower bodies. How did you find these worked, fit-wise, in comparison to the Sewaholic Thurlow?

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    1. They are very different patterns, as the Jasmine is meant for stretch wovens and the Thurlow regular non-stretch woven fabrics. Obviously you would need to take in the waist for Style Arc. I think in order to get a similar fit in the Thurlow you would need to go down one, possible two, sizes. (I find Sewaholic sizing very generous.) The Thurlow is lower rise and has a 1″ longer leg length.

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    1. The weave is so unusual! It isn’t the softest fabric in the world (the upper edge starts to feel scratchy after 12 hours of wear) but it seems pretty durable and is a nice neutral for spring.

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  4. Anne do you prefer the Jasmine to the Sammi pant or are they a similar fit. albeit without pockets? They look good on you!

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    1. I prefer the Jasmine. The Sammi felt tight through the thigh, and I prefer the leg and slightly lower rise of the Jasmine.

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