First photo shoot with my studio strobes!
I’m showing this top both tucked and untucked. I prefer wearing this top tucked. It is too boxy untucked, and does nothing for my figure. I’m wearing it with my Candice skirt.
The Style Arc Skye top has cut-on sleeves, two bust darts, and a center back seam. The neckline and curved hem are finished with topstitched facings. The length falls at around high hip level for most people.
This was a UFO project that was cut out sometime last summer, and I left it to “marinate” until last weekend, when I needed an easy project to distract myself. (September is turning out to be just as f*($’d up for me as July and August.)
I used this 4-ply silk crepe from Fabric Mart. Style Arc doesn’t recommend one particular fabric for this top.
For the back closure I used an orphan button from my stash. While Style Arc includes a pattern piece for the back button loop, you can also use a hook and eye.
- Added a 3/4″ back shoulder dart
- 3/8″ rounded back alteration
- 1/2″ swayback tuck
- Moved the bust dart inward 1/2″
After making this I realized the bust darts are probably about 3/8″ too high. Judging from the other Skye tops I’ve seen the bust darts are drafted a little too high for most women. Definitely check the dart position before you sew this!
A couple of things to be aware of:
- If you are a pear or hourglass, you’re probably going to be happiest tucking this into a high-waisted skirt. And if you do tuck it in, you should consider lengthening this top a couple of inches. I just barely got away without adding extra length, and that is only because the skirt I am wearing with it (the Style Arc Candice) has a 1.5″ waistband and the bottom of the waistband sits at my natural waist. I also have to be mindful during wear.
- For the sleeves I just folded back and topstitched, as directed by the instructions, and IMO it is a little bit too “homemade” because the sleeve is short and not extremely fitted, so bits of the wrong side peek out at times. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with serged seam allowances, but at the same time I feel like they are best reserved for seams and hems that aren’t publicly displayed during wear. If you think this will bother you, plan on cutting out some bias binding strips out of a lightweight fabric to finish them off.
- The way this top is finished requires you to press the side and center back seam allowances apart. (You can finish the shoulder seam allowances together.)
This weekend I also fixed my Candice skirt. I ended up ripping out the invisible zipper and waistband (ugh), shortened the waistband 1.5″ (which essentially brought it back to the originally drafted length), and resewed the hip curve to match. I’m much happier with the skirt. I feel like it hits a more flattering point on my torso, and it brings the hem up to my originally intended length. Definitely worth the extra time it took to fix.
I shot these at f/8 or f/9, ISO 400, using my Canon 70-200 f/4L IS lens. Shutter speed varied – some were at 1/60, others at 1/80, and a couple at 1/125.
As I mentioned in my first sentence, this is my first project photoshoot with my new studio strobes. I positioned two strobes at a 45″ angle from where I was standing. One strobe was set at a lower power than the other. The more powerful strobe was aimed into a 60″ silver umbrella. (That was my key light.) The other strobe was meant as a fill light, so it was set at a weaker power, and aimed into a much 36″ white umbrella. For some of my photos I forgot to turn off an incandescent lamp near the camera, so the definition isn’t as good as it could have been, and for others I had the fill light set too powerful.
My “secret” to the studio background look is good cropping and Savage seamless background paper. This paper comes in several widths and around 40 different colors. Since space is such a priority for me I stick to the 53″ width. I used Thunder Gray for this particular photoshoot. I love this stuff. It is fairly inexpensive and comes on a big roll, so if you stand on it with muddy shoes you can just cut that section off and unroll some more. Easy to handle, and unlike traditional muslin theres on need to steam out wrinkles. I got mine from B&H.
After I mounted it on my backdrop stand (which is stabilized with the help of some sandbags) I untaped the edges, pulled them down, clamped the top of it once I had pulled enough off the roll, and secured the bottom edge with a small floor mat. With the exception of resizing and converting from a RAW to JPG file, this photo is straight out of my camera. Kind of crazy how, with the help of some cropping, it transforms an ordinary living room into a “studio”.