The design lines in the front made this dress a lot of fun to photograph!
Marfy 3879 is a “trendy dress with curved-seam bodice emphasized by animal print on plain fabric.” This is one of the patterns in Marfy’s new 2016-17 catalog.
I found the fashion illustration provided by Marfy was accurate, with the exception of the front neck being higher than what the fashion illustration depicts.
For my dress I used a beefy wool double-knit from Gorgeous Fabrics. It is reversible, with a textured houndstooth print on one side and a dark gray jersey on the other. It was too heavy for the project I originally planned for it, but as soon as I saw this Marfy pattern I knew exactly what I was going to do with it! Since it has hardly any stretch I was able to get away with treating it like a woven.
As I mentioned, this knit is quite beefy. It is bulky at the shoulder and neck, despite my best efforts to smash the seam down with steam and my wooden clapper. I may end up replacing the facings with bias bindings made out of a lighter weight fabric.
The most technically challenging part of this dress is sewing the inset corner. (If you’ve never sewn on before you can check out the tutorial I wrote. Since my fabric was very stable I didn’t need to apply stabilizer prior to sewing that corner.) I used 5/8″ for the side seams and 3/8″ seams everywhere else. Sticking to 1/4″ or 3/8″ seam allowances for the front design line will make sewing those curves a lot easier. The 3/8″ seam allowances, along with the flexibility of my fabric, also allowed me to avoid having to clip the seam allowances.
There is some shaping built into that front seam over the bust, but if you’re full-busted fitting this dress has the potential to be challenging. A muslin will definitely be in order!
One issue I had with this dress was the front neck facing. It seemed a little large across the lower edge, and I’m pretty sure that’s what is causing the lumpiness around the neckline.
- Added a 3/4″ back shoulder dart
- 1/2″ swayback alteration
- Added back waist darts (I think they removed a total of around 3″)
- Added 6″ to the hip
- Lengthened between hip and hem 1″
- Added an additional 1″ length to the hem
- Added 1/2″ across the front waist
- 3/8″ forward shoulder alteration
- 3/8″ rounded back alteration
- Removed a total of 1/2″ at the center back from neck to just below the shoulder blade
- Added 1/2″ length to the center back hem
Aside from adding a little bit of extra length to the hem and some darts to help facilitate shaping, I made no style adjustments. Originally I was going to add sleeves to this dress. Then last week my department moved into new office space, and due to the location of some steam pipes my new office is MUCH warmer than my old office was. I went from having the coldest office to the warmest! So instead of adding sleeves I decided that I’m going to make a coordinating jacket for this dress. I suspect that’s the direction my wardrobe is going to take from now on – lots of sleeveless dresses with jackets and cardigans.