Another Burda 09/2006 #114 Wrap Dress

Collar detail…somehow I managed to match the colors to the print on the bodice!

The main difference from last time is that I did a 3/8″ sloped shoulder alteration, and skipped the pocket flaps and shoulder epaulettes.

I used a lightweight silk jersey, purchased from Mood a few years ago:

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Since this particular fabric was only 39″ wide I needed 5 yards (!), making this one of my more expensive wrap dresses. (Good thing Mood happened to be running at sale at that time!) I ended up using all five of those yards too. I think it was worth it though – I love the print, and I tend to keep my silk jersey wrap dresses longer and wear them more frequently than other styles.

28 thoughts on “Another Burda 09/2006 #114 Wrap Dress

  1. As usual, beautiful fit and construction. I’d love to be able to just watch you work – I’m sure I would learn so much. 🙂

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  2. Wonderful yet again Anne, What settings ao you set your coverstich machine to sew soft fabric like this. I have struggled with mine.

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  3. Another lovely wrap dress — isn’t it nice to have patterns that you can cut and sew without major modifications! A question — does this pattern have a waist seam? All the line drawings I can find have the tie obscuring any clues. 🙂 Thank you!

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  4. How do you care for your silks? Do you dry clean them all and if not how do you decide which ones to hand wash and how? With this material of course you dry clean, but I have been wondering how you handled fabric care since you use so much wool and silk. Forgive what I am sure is a newbie question. I look to you as guru of all things sewing. (said as I bow to your superior knowledge) 🙂

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    1. I actually don’t dry clean (unless it is something that’s unwieldy, like a wool winter coat…but even those I’ve washed by hand in the bathtub!). Silk is actually a pretty durable fiber. Dry cleaning is usually recommended because the dyes they use in the milling process are often not set properly, or they overdyed the fabric (ie didn’t properly rinse out the excess dye particles). I often start off by soaking the fabric in a bucket of cold water with Dharma Trading’s Dye Fixative. (The dye fixative helps “glue” any excess dye particles in place.) Then I usually do an initial cold water prewash in the washing machine using the delicate cycle and Eucalan. (I often wash the finished garment by hand, but I like doing the initial prewash using a machine because I feel like the constant tumbling motion does a better job preshrinking the fabric.) I always use cold water because acid dyes tend to get unstable when exposed to temperatures above 30C/85F. (Due to the larger size of the dye molecules blues tend to be the least stable whereas yellow is one of the most.) I usually bypass the spin cycle in favor of drying it in my Nina Soft spin dryer (which is much faster and less harsh on the fabric). Then I always air dry it, either on a clothesline during the summer or on drying racks indoors by the wood stove during the winter.

      My method works for me because I’m fairly forgiving when it comes to the possibility of color fade or a change in hand. I consider it a reasonable trade-off to not have to deal with the expense or unhealthy chemicals used in the traditional dry cleaning process. In general the silks I’ve had the most problems with were low quality to begin with.

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      1. I hadn’t heard of the Nina Soft spin dryer so I went looking for it and watched youtube videos. I’m getting one! I also saw the wonder wash and the easygo washers and have been watching the videos on them. Have you tried either one of these? I’d be interested in your opinion on a washer also since I’m thinking very seriously about getting one. With the laundry in the basement being able to do small loads upstairs would make life easier. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and opening my eyes to new products! Just doing my part to keep the economy moving….:)

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      2. No, I usually just wash by hand in a 5 gallon bucket, often with the aid of something called the Mobile Washer (it looks like a plunger, but is meant for laundry).

        Sometimes it is hard to get the load balanced, but otherwise I have zero complaints about my spin dryer. I can’t believe how much water it gets out in a minute – much easier and more effective than trying to squeeze it by hand. Everything air dries much quicker, too.

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  5. WOW! Thanks for a wonderful and scientific tutorial!!! and what a relief to know that I don’t have to dry clean everything and how to care for it. I don’t know if you have many less experienced (okay, ignorant beginner sewers needing a lot of guidance) followers or if most are knowledgeable but, you might consider using your reply as a post since your answer is so full of information and the science behind it. I always thought it was shrinkage. I feel so smart now (smarter). I may get a cap and gown just so I can move the tassel whenever I learn things so valuable like this. Now for retention…….. Thanks again. I told you, you are my Obi-wan Kenobi guru.

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  6. Anne, it is a spectacular dress. I’ve hesitated writing to you for fear of seemingly going off topic, but if you don’t mind, I’d like to ask why you did a sloped shoulder adjustment, rather than a forward shoulder as you have described in previous projects? Also, I would greatly respect your opinion about sleeve cap adjustment, following a forward shoulder adjustment. I’ve read two different tutorials: one utilizing cutting the top of the sleeve cap and sliding it forward the amount of the forward shoulder, then truing up sleeve curves; the second method recommended no cutting of the sleeve cap, merely remarking the center line of the cap forward the same amount as the adjustment, so that no alteration to the cap curves were made per se. I’ve tried both method with mixed success, now believing my personal fit would be improved by adding the (dreaded) high round back adjustment. I am doing this adjustment with my current project so will be learning something either way!

    If you do not feed it appropriate to respond, I understand. Your blog is always informative and I look forward to every new post! Thank you.

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    1. I did it because my shoulders are a little more sloped than what the pattern is drafted for. Sloped and forward shoulder adjustments are two entirely different things. You can have square but forward shoulders, or normal but sloped shoulders, etc.

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    2. Also, I slash and move the sleeve cap forward because it changes the shape of it: steeper in the front, shallower in the back. This is more anatomically correct than the typical Big 4 sleeve cap, which is more symmetrical.

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  7. This dress is gorgeous! I am always impressed with how perfectly your clothing fits you. I hope some day I can even close to your skill level. Me jealous!!

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