Burda 2/2017 #106A is the illustrated sewing course pattern for the February 2017 issue. It features a pleat at the center front V-neck and a button closure at the center back neck. The defining feature is a ruffle that extends from the middle of the back all the way down to the side seam at the front waist, forming a cap sleeve over the shoulder. The neckline is finished with a facing, and the armholes are finished with bias binding.
The fabric I used was a silk georgette from Fabric Mart. I needed only 2 yards of this 43″ fabric.
I started with a size 38 and made the following alterations:
- Lengthened 2″
- Added a 3/4″ dart to the back shoulder
- 3/8″ forward shoulder alteration
- 1/4″ sloped shoulder alteration
- Added a total of 2.5″ to the hip
- Extended the bust dart 1/2″ towards the center front
- Instead of doing a narrow hem for the shoulders (which was maddening in this very lightweight, floaty fabric) I finished the edge using a rolled hem on my serger. It looks really nice with the Magnifico thread I used.
- I also used the Magnifico thread for general construction. My go-to threads for everyday sewing are Gutermann Mara 100 or Mettler, but when working with silks and other extremely lightweight and delicate fabrics I like to use either Magnifico or #50 Tire silk thread (depending on which one has the better color match). These threads also make beautiful buttonholes in lighter weight fabrics.
- The strap width is around 2″, very bra-strap friendly, especially with the ruffle overlay.
- Since I plan on tucking this in most, if not all the time, I finished the hem with a two-thread serger stitch instead of a narrow hem. The thread is nice enough and blends into the pattern that even if I don’t tuck it in it still looks presentable.
- I can easily pull this over my head without having to undo the button at the center back.