Burda 2/2017 #106A: V-Neck Tank

Burda 2/2017 #106A is the illustrated sewing course pattern for the February 2017 issue. It features a pleat at the center front V-neck and a button closure at the center back neck.  The defining feature is a ruffle that extends from the middle of the back all the way down to the side seam at the front waist, forming a cap sleeve over the shoulder. The neckline is finished with a facing, and the armholes are finished with bias binding.

The fabric I used was a silk georgette from Fabric Mart. I needed only 2 yards of this 43″ fabric.

Screen Shot 2018-05-29 at 9.51.01 AMScreen Shot 2018-05-29 at 9.50.54 AM

Fitting adjustments:

I started with a size 38 and made the following alterations:

    • Lengthened 2″
    • Added a 3/4″ dart to the back shoulder
    • 3/8″ forward shoulder alteration
    • 1/4″ sloped shoulder alteration
    • Added a total of 2.5″ to the hip
    • Extended the bust dart 1/2″ towards the center front

 

Notes:

  • Instead of doing a narrow hem for the shoulders (which was maddening in this very lightweight, floaty fabric) I finished the edge using a rolled hem on my serger. It looks really nice with the Magnifico thread I used.
  • I also used the Magnifico thread for general construction. My go-to threads for everyday sewing are Gutermann Mara 100 or Mettler, but when working with silks and other extremely lightweight and delicate fabrics I like to use either Magnifico or #50 Tire silk thread (depending on which one has the better color match). These threads also make beautiful buttonholes in lighter weight fabrics.
  • The strap width is around 2″, very bra-strap friendly, especially with the ruffle overlay.
  • Since I plan on tucking this in most, if not all the time, I finished the hem with a two-thread serger stitch instead of a narrow hem. The thread is nice enough and blends into the pattern that even if I don’t tuck it in it still looks presentable.
  • I can easily pull this over my head without having to undo the button at the center back.

53 thoughts on “Burda 2/2017 #106A: V-Neck Tank

  1. Oh you’re back in the blogosphere! So glad! Everytime I wear my Stella Coat I think of your blog on it and appreciate your notes. I look forward to sewing the blouse.

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  2. Great to see you back posting about your garments. Congratulations on a perfect top – so feminine and what an excellent fit!!

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  3. Fabulous Top, it looks lovely on you. I am in the process of making that top in a flowered silk satin and I am hand stitching the flounces. Your rolled hem looks much better with the thinner thread. I am glad that you are back blogging I have missed your posts.

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  4. Hear, hear to the other comments. I had no luck trying to send you an email to see if you were OK. I too was missing your inspirational sewing blogs (but past ones proved very helpful when I was a late starter on patterns you have made in the past).

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  5. Wonderful to see you posting again Anne. Your blog posts have been sorely missed in my world! Lovely top as well and, as usual, brilliantly executed. The amount of detail you include in your reviews is really helpful and I, for one, certainly appreciate it.

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  6. Yeah what a good morning I’m having! A post from clothing engineer first thing! Thank you your posts are so enlightening.

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  7. Your top looks great! So great to see a post from you, and I hope your animals are doing well and may pop up some time too!

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  8. So happy to see you posting again! You are so talented at understanding fit and construction and creating a beautiful blog! Thank you!

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  9. Quick question, how did you learn to fit yourself so precisely? Certain books, classes? I think that would be an incredible blog post. I am 5’10” and have very long arms and have to alter everything.

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    1. Michele – same here. I’m 5’9″ and my daughter is 5’11” – altering patterns is a must. We are very long-waisted.

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    2. The good old measuring tape as well as trial and error and comparing pattern pieces to other clothing/patterns that fit well. I have my fair share of books but I prefer to go by instinct rather than solicit outside feedback – there’s a lot of bad advice out there, even from people that are “experts.” I’ve been told before that I needed to do a FBA when the problem was actually fixed by moving the existing princess seams/darts more towards the center front.

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  10. Welcome back to the world of blogging (mine is at Bloglovin/@cashmeresally). I have so missed your work and your voice!

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  11. It’s a lovely blouse and perfect for you! I am glad to see you back posting. I missed your attention to detail and expertise.

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  12. SO SO SO SO SO HAPPY to see you posting again!!! This has literally made my day!! The top is lovely, I learn so much from you! WELCOME BACK!!!

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  13. OMG – you’re back. And you look fabulous Anne! I’ve missed your posts. I love your attention to fit, detail and photography. Hope all is well in your world.

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  14. Yay! So glad to see you back!

    I’m never sure about ruffles on me, I’m a bit topheavy (big arms, big boobs, big belly), and I worry that ruffles on top will just make that even worse. That said, I love this on you! And it looks cool and comfy for a hot summer day (unless it’s also a muggy summer day–then nothing you can do makes you less miserable if you’re outside.)

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  15. What a gorgeous, versatile top. Interesting details but not too fussy. Funny, I’ve been seeing a lot of tops with that front pleat detail lately… it’s very flattering. And amazing sewing, as always!

    Also, welcome back, of course!!! So excited to see you pop up in my feed!

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  16. Great to see you sewing and blogging! Love the blouse. Yours looks much nicer than the Burda one – well done at seeing the possibility! Thank you for the great review as always.

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  17. Another ‘welcome back!’ Anne. I missed your informative posts. A lovely, feminine blouse. Very attractive on you. I say, you are looking lovely as well!

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  18. WOW, you have been missed, Ms. Anne! Your lovely fashion vision, those great tips, and your detail are pretty much unrivaled in blogland. This top is lovely, as are you.

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  19. Hey there I was looking for your blog a few months back as I remembered that cute sheepskin jacket you made. Do you still have the post on that jacket.

    On Tue, May 29, 2018 at 11:16 PM Clothing Engineer wrote:

    > clothingengineer posted: ” Burda 2/2017 #106A is the illustrated sewing > course pattern for the February 2017 issue. It features a pleat at the > center front V-neck and a button closure at the center back neck. The > defining feature is a ruffle that extends from the middle ” >

    Like

  20. Oh my gosh, I’m so glad you’re back blogging! Your blouse is absolutely beautiful! I never would have taken a second look at that print fabric but it is really stunning made up. Great job!

    Like

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