Burda 8/2016 #124A: Dress

Another 2017 project I just got around to documenting…

Burda 08/2016 #124 is an unlined woven dress with short sleeves, split neckline detail, princess seams, Dior darts at the bust, slash pockets, A-line skirt, and self fabric belt.

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To me it is the perfect office dress. Comfortable, stylish, and professional without being either too casual or too formal.

I used a winter white double-faced stretch wool from Apple Annie Fabrics. Looks almost exactly like the magazine version!

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For the belt I used this 2 1/2″ belt buckle from Pacific Trim. I interfaced the belt with medium weight fusible weft interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply. If I could do it all over again I would have used a hair canvas interfacing for more structure (like I did for the red version). I have to keep the belt cinched pretty tight in order to keep it from flopping around…

I used Pro-Sheer Elegance from Fashion Sewing Supply to interface the neckline facings.

Fit:

I started with a size 38. Fitting adjustments included:

  • Lengthened 1/2″ between bust and waist
  • Lengthened 1/4″ between shoulder and bust
  • Took in each back waist dart 3/8″, and lengthened each one 1″
  • Added 3/4″ shoulder darts to the back
  • Added 1/2″ width across the upper back
  • Added 3/4″ width to the sleeves
  • Extended the front Dior darts 1/2″
  • 3/8″ sloped shoulder adjustment
  • 3/8″ forward shoulder adjustment
  • Added 4″ width to the hips
  • Added 1/2″ width to the front waist

Due to the thick, spongy, and stretchy nature of this fabric I also took in the side seams a little bit (maybe an inch?)

17 thoughts on “Burda 8/2016 #124A: Dress

  1. Gorgeous! And your description of this dress is perfect. It does give off that vibe of professional, not too formal, not too casual. So it should be perfect for so many venues. Well done!

    Liked by 1 person

  2. A great dress and I think the buckle elevates it. You are inspiring me to take more care with my fit and learn to make the necessary adjustments. Do you have a fitting book that you rely upon?

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    1. For a while I was using this book. Now I don’t use anything, I kind of know what I need to do and just regularly re-measure myself and confirm the pattern with a tape measure. I’m sure I’m doing something that’s technically incorrect and sometimes my pieces don’t always line up 100% after I’m done! I also don’t expect perfection. Some people will probably look at the back of this dress and go “OMG YOU NEED A SWAYBACK ADJUSTMENT” but its really just a little blousing from lifting my arms up while having a snug belt. The main thing though is that I do take the time to alter the pattern for just about everything I make, even though it can take several hours. I almost never sew a pattern straight out of the envelope.

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      1. Anne, do you make a toile or do you compare your measurements against the pattern piece? Do you know when you make Burda you will have to make some standard adjustments? I love this make. It fits you perfectly.

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        1. Unless I’m doing a structured/lined garment or its a style I’m very uncertain about, I almost never make muslins. I know the sewing world pushes them hard but I find them tedious and time-consuming. I would rather risk a few botched projects and get more actual sewing done. I almost always use a combination of a tape measure and having a general sense of what alterations I need to make from previous experience. I’ve also found it helpful to compare the measurements of a similar finished garment to the pattern pieces. Most of the time I stick to a select few pattern designers (Burda, Style Arc, and Marfy) which helps further simplify the guesswork involved. So much of sewing success is due to experience and practice. The best thing to do is actually go ahead and sew and try new things, and to accept that a certain amount of imperfection if not outright failure will be involved during this process.

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  3. Love seeing the catch up posts. This dress is lovely and so perfect for the office. Your care in altering the pattern shows with the great fit.

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  4. So glad to see you posting again! Your description of the dress is so on point and it really suits you. It’s been on my wish list since the pattern came out, I’m just still shy to tackle a pattern that probably will need several muslins seeing I’m only a beginner sewist.

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  5. Beautiful dress and with wonderfully simple and elegant details. Great to see you posting once again. And always delighted to see Apple Annie Fabrics come to life! Pellon’s Shirtailor is my favorite choice for making belts.

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