Burda 5/2019 #102B is a knee-length dress with cap sleeves, a boat neckline, bodice princess seams, vertical darts, and a 1″ waistband. The A-line skirt features two pleats in the front and darts in the back. View A features a contrasting petersham ribbon waistband with a bow detail, and View B has just a regular self-fabric waistband. The armholes are topstitched and the edges finished with bias binding.
I needed not quite three yards of this 45″ fabric for my dress. I had thought about making a second version of Burda 8/2016 #124A with this fabric, but while I love that dress it doesn’t layer well. The cap sleeves and neckline on this one give more flexibility.
The neck facings and waistband pieces are fused with Pro-Sheer Elegance Light from Fashion Sewing Supply.
To make this dress easier to wash and press I chose to omit the lining. There’s a separate lining piece drafted for the front skirt, but otherwise the lining pieces are the same as the fashion fabric pieces.
The only style change I made was lowering the neckline in the front 3/4″. After making it I’m not sure this was entirely necessary, but I hate the feel of a stiff neckline against the base of my throat and wanted to err on the side of caution.
For fit, I started with a size 38 and made my normal Burda alterations:
- Lengthened between bust and waist 3/4″
- Lengthened between waist and hip 1″
- Added 4″ width to the hip
- Add 3/4″ total width to the upper back
- Took in the back skirt waist 1″ through adding a second dart to both the back skirt and back bodice pieces and removing 1″ width from the back waistband piece to match
- 3/8″ sloped shoulder alteration
- 3/8″ forward shoulder alteration
- Added 3/4″ back shoulder dart (which I should have pushed over to the center more)
- Moved the princess seams and front darts inward 1/2″
- Dropped the start of the zipper opening 2″
- Raised the hem 1″