Burda 5/2019 #102B: Dress

Burda 5/2019 #102B is a knee-length dress with cap sleeves, a boat neckline, bodice princess seams, vertical darts, and a 1″ waistband. The A-line skirt features two pleats in the front and darts in the back. View A features a contrasting petersham ribbon waistband with a bow detail, and View B has just a regular self-fabric waistband. The armholes are topstitched and the edges finished with bias binding.

I used a red cotton/poly stretch denim from Apple Annie Fabrics:

Screen Shot 2019-09-03 at 12.01.11 PM.png

I needed not quite three yards of this 45″ fabric for my dress. I had thought about making a second version of Burda 8/2016 #124A with this fabric, but while I love that dress it doesn’t layer well. The cap sleeves and neckline on this one give more flexibility.

The neck facings and waistband pieces are fused with Pro-Sheer Elegance Light from Fashion Sewing Supply.

To make this dress easier to wash and press I chose to omit the lining. There’s a separate lining piece drafted for the front skirt, but otherwise the lining pieces are the same as the fashion fabric pieces.

The only style change I made was lowering the neckline in the front 3/4″. After making it I’m not sure this was entirely necessary, but I hate the feel of a stiff neckline against the base of my throat and wanted to err on the side of caution.

For fit, I started with a size 38 and made my normal Burda alterations:

  • Lengthened between bust and waist 3/4″
  • Lengthened between waist and hip 1″
  • Added 4″ width to the hip
  • Add 3/4″ total width to the upper back
  • Took in the back skirt waist 1″ through adding a second dart to both the back skirt and back bodice pieces and removing 1″ width from the back waistband piece to match
  • 3/8″ sloped shoulder alteration
  • 3/8″ forward shoulder alteration
  • Added 3/4″ back shoulder dart (which I should have pushed over to the center more)
  • Moved the princess seams and front darts inward 1/2″
  • Dropped the start of the zipper opening 2″
  • Raised the hem 1″

11 thoughts on “Burda 5/2019 #102B: Dress

  1. Another beautiful dress Anne and you certainly wear it well! LOVE the color on you and hope that many compliments come your way. Great job in documenting all your pattern alterations and observations.

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  2. Thank you for reviewing this pattern so thoroughly as usual: it’s just pushed this from my ‘maybe’ list to the ‘definitely’ list!

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  3. Actually I think your version does the pattern better justice than the Burda patterned versions. I did look at the line drawings, but somehow the pockets were lost on me… Now I think I definitely need one! I have just the right navy wool-silk fabric that I have been searching a classic pattern with pockets for :). That color is stunning on you btw!

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