Looking for the October 2014 Style Arc newsletter?

The Style Arc team just gave me a heads-up that the new styles will be posted a day or two late. They’ve been extremely busy lately moving into a bigger, brighter office space, and they’re also have some unexpected trouble with getting their internet connection installed. So in case if you were wondering why you haven’t gotten anything in your inbox yet…that’s the scoop!

Style Arc Molly Top

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The Molly is the free Style Arc pattern for September 2014. It is a simple cowl neck tee pattern with a neck band and front tuck detail. The sleeve pattern includes cutting lines for short, 3/4, and long sleeves. I made the long sleeve version. The closest RTW top I could find that mimics the waist tuck is this Fracture top.

Style Arc recommends using jersey and slinky for this top. When looking for a suitable fabric for this top think “thin and lots of drape.” I used a merino wool jersey from Fabric Mart.

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Fitting adjustments were:

  • Added 3/4″ width to the sleeves at the elbow/bicep
  • Lengthened the sleeves 1.5″
  • Lengthened the body between bust and waist 1.25″
  • Added about 2.5″ width to the hip
  • Added 3/4″ width to the upper back
  • 3/8″ forward shoulder alteration

I’m not sure why Style Arc rated this Medium/Challenging. In my opinion it should be Easy/Medium. You sew the back and front together at the shoulders, sew the neck bands together at the center back and stitch, fold the neck band in half and sew it to the neckline, and then sew in your sleeves and the side seams. At the end you then sew a 1″ tuck where marked at the front to create the drape and hem the sleeves and body. That’s it! I think it took me 1.5 hours from cutting to finishing. With the exception of the center back seam of the neckband and the front tuck I sewed this entirely on my Babylock Evolve. Technically I could have sewed the center back seam of the neckband on the serger as well, but I prefer to do it on a regular sewing machine because you can press the seam allowances apart and thus reduce bulk.

I agree with another reviewer that the front tuck is tricky. Sometimes the knit drapes attractively around it, and other times it looks like I got my shirt caught in my waistband! I’ll probably end up doing what she did (make a second tuck on the outside). But for the purpose of this blog entry I wanted to show how it looks out of the envelope.

Style Arc Jilly Jeans

First project for Fall 2014! I took these photos after work so they are a bit rumpled from sitting at a desk all day.

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I will never wear these with a tucked-in shirt, but these photos give a better sense of the rise and fit around the waist.

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BTW the shirt I’m wearing is the Style Arc Tootsie.

Here’s some photos I took last night right after I made them.

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The Jilly Jean from Style Arc is a straight leg jeans pattern meant for stretch denim and other stretch wovens. It has the traditional jeans styling with an 18″ leg opening and 32″ inseam. The side seams are shifted forward. The pattern includes two waistband options: a straight waistband for apple/rectangle figures and a curved waistband for pear and hourglasses. Guess which one I used! ;)

This was another spur-of-the-moment project. I started it Sunday afternoon and had them done sometime in the evening. I was relaxing on Sunday by going through my stash (it is like shopping without having spend money or deal with the general public), and I came across this denim. I decided I didn’t want it languishing in my stash any longer so I pulled it out to use as a wearable muslin for jeans.  This denim is a heavier weight stretch denim (I’m guessing about 10oz?) and has very little drape. It has 15-20% stretch across the grain. I think it was from Fabric.com, but I’m not sure.

I constructed the jeans using the jean thread from Cleaner’s Supply in Levi Gold. I used it for both regular seams and topstitching. I serged all raw seam allowances. In order to get these jeans done as quickly as possible I was not as accurate as I normally am with topstitching. I also avoided the temptation to try them on until I had the waistband topstitched in place and it was time to fit the button! Once I tried them on I was was pleased with the fit so I decided to finish them using rivets and a copper tack button from CastBullet.com.

My fitting adjustments were:

  • Added 3/8″ length to the front crotch curve extension and 3/4″ to the back
  • Added a 3/4″ dart to the back yoke
  • Removed 1/4″ from the upper part of the back side seam
  • Took in the waist a total of 1.5″ right above where I added the dart to the yoke
  • Added 3/8″ width to the front thigh

The Jilly jeans have slightly more ease than the Sandra jeans do (roughly 1″ more ease at the hip) . Overall I am MUCH happier with the Jilly. They feel more “me” and I feel less self-conscious wearing these than I do the skinny Sandras. I am sooo beyond skintight jeans. They may look good but they restrict movement and are just not comfortable to wear for more than an hour!

I didn’t do a “modeling” video this time, but I did take some footage of  Sallie and I playing tonight, and I’m wearing my Jilly jeans. She’s going to be turning one next month. She may be tall but she’s built like an ultra-sleek racehorse!