You guys…I’m so excited. I fixed the ruffle on my Julia jacket!
And for comparison purposes, here’s the “before”:
As I mentioned in my previous post about this jacket, I was unhappy with how the ruffle came out. The drape was asymmetrical and stiff. This was really disappointing because I loved the fabric I used for it. So I thought about how I could fix it. According to my father, one of my best traits is that I have an incredible amount of persistence. (Example: I spent over three hours on a Sunday a few weeks ago successfully chasing down and catching one of the chickens that escaped into the woods because I wasn’t about to let a dumb cluck get the best of me.) So as a last ditch effort I spent part of Tuesday evening attempting to fix my Julia…and it worked!
My theory was that, in addition to me possibly sewing the right ruffle in the wrong direction, the 3/8″ seam allowance Style Arc included for the ruffle was getting in the way of it flowing nicely. So I started off by un-bagging the jacket and unpicking the right front ruffle and front facing from the body of the jacket. I then unpicked the outer edge seam of the right ruffle, from center back of the hem to the center back neck. I resewed this seam, starting from the center back neck and going all the way down to the center back of the back peplum. Then I took my pinking shears and went to town on that seam allowance, trimming it down so the pinking was just barely above the stitching. I then re-attached the ruffle and front facing/lining to the body of the jacket, starting from center back neck and finishing at the center back hem. I turned the jacket inside out, took it to my ironing board, steamed and pressed the heck out of it, making sure that outer edge stretched into a circular shape as much as possible. I tried it on, and to my delight I saw the ruffle was not only much better, but actually looked nicer than the left one did! So then I unbagged the left side of the jacket, unpicked the front facing/lining/ruffle/body seam allowance, then pinked the seam allowance of the outer edge of the ruffle. Then I re-attached the ruffle and facing/lining to the jacket. I also turned the jacket inside out at this point and closed up the bagging opening (which is located in the lining of the sleeve.) I once again took the jacket to my ironing board and steamed and stretched and pressed the everything into shape.
So if you make this jacket, make sure you have your pinking shears nearby! It really helps “release” that ruffle and let it flow nicely. Due to the bias cut of the ruffle and lack of structure you aren’t always going to get things perfectly in place, but in my opinion it behaves much nicer and looks much more like the line drawing than it did before.