A Jalie Bikini: 3351 Swim Shorts and 4136 Crossover Top

Pattern Background

Jalie 3351

This pattern can be used for either running or swim shorts. It has a wide waistband, side panel pockets, and built in briefs.

Per Jalie, the waistband hits around the navel for kids, a few inches below the navel for teen and smaller adult sizes, and got up around the navel again for the larger adult sizes.

The size range goes from F (2T) all the way to FF (women’s size 22/ euro 52).

This pattern is out of print now so it is only available as a PDF.

Jalie 4136

This fully lined bikini pattern has both a scoop neck and crossover versions for the top. The bikini bottoms include both a lower rise version and higher waisted versions, one of which has a self fabric tie detail.

Size range goes from 2T to 2X. Like with a lot of the newer Jalie pattern releases there’s also a PDF only version that goes from 2T to 5X, and a plus size version for 1X-5X.

Fit and Alterations

Jalie 3351 Shorts

Per my hip measurement I made a size CC. The ease was perfect.

I added 2.5” of height to the center back seam, tapering to nothing at the center front. I also added 3/8” width to the front inseam for my fuller thighs. When I was adding the elastic I sized down a couple of sizes per the elastic cutting length chart. They feel snug and secure without digging in.

After making a test version I lowered the rise 1”. They sat at the navel and just seemed too big and matronly when worn with a bikini top. They would have been fine if worn with a rashguard top or tshirt.

Jalie 4136 Bikini Top

I made a size Y. I sized down to a W for the band. I compared my underbust measurement to the size chart and W was the closest matching measurement, so that’s what I cut.

Fabric and Materials

I used a Lycra purchase from the Elingeria sometime back in 2012 (yes it has been sitting in my stash all this time). I didn’t have quite enough (these were scraps from another project from long ago) so I cut the side panel, waistband facing, and brief from a white swimwear fabric I found on Amazon. I should have read the description better because it’s kind of shimmery and I prefer matte fabrics for swimwear, but so little of it peeks out that it doesn’t really matter.

The lining for the crotch was a swimwear lining recently purchased on sale from Emma One Sock.

The 3/8” braided elastic was from the Amazon seller Mandala Crafts.

For the bikini top I used a swimwear lining fabric from Payless Fabrics on Amazon.

Construction

Jalie 3351 Shorts

The instructions are excellent and I had no issues. I really like how the waistband is constructed. The facing is cut shorter than the outside waistband, which causes the seam where the elastic, outer waistband, and waistband facing meet to be folded entirely to the inside. This completely eliminates bulk at the upper edge of the waistband, and if you’re using a different fabric for the waistband facing it won’t show through at all.

I will say that my life was made significantly easier when turning up those hems for the pockets and hems by using Design One fusible stay tape. This tape is exactly 3/8” wide so if you apply it directly along the edge you get a nice guide for folding the hem before removing the paper. I just doubled it up to make it 3/4” wide for the front and back shorts hem. It not only made turning up the hem far easier on this slippery synthetic fabric, but also made cover stitching way easier. The final result still maintained its stretch. 10/10 recommend!

Jalie 4136 Bikini Top

Like with the shorts, the instructions were excellent. I particularly liked the band construction. You zigzag the elastic to one edge, fold the other edge of the fabric up around the elastic snugly, zigzag again, trim, and then sew it directly to the rest of the top. Very neat and completely eliminates the elastic rolling inside during wear or laundering.

Conclusion

I’m extremely happy with the shorts. They fit and feel great! I wanted something I could confidently wear to the beach while playing with my little boy and these are perfect for that. Unlike with a skirt they won’t ride up in the water, and you get plenty of coverage if you’re self conscious about your lower half (which I definitely am post baby). The brief is full coverage and stays in place really well.

The bikini top feels secure and comfortable to wear. I think I am a 36C now (not sure since I haven’t worn a proper underwired bra in years now) and I feel like it gives good support. I have plans to make it as a bra top as well, because my toddler still nurses on occasion and the crossover styling makes that very convenient. (Jalie actually has a post on converting this pattern to an unlined bra top, though I would likely do a lined version for extra support.)

Jalie 4451 “Claudette” Shirt

Pattern Background

Jalie 4451 is a long sleeve shirt with a back yoke, two back tucks, and standard sleeve placket. The cuffs and collar band are angled off instead of rounded at the corners. You can also make this in shirtdress length with a shaped hem and self fabric tie belt.

The pockets and flaps for the shirt are pointed shape. The shirtdress pockets and flaps are square shaped, with larger square patch pockets at hip level.

Fabric and Materials

I used a single napped cotton flannel recently purchased from Fabric Mart. Sometimes flannel thickens up a lot after washing/drying which can change the drape, but this maintained a very soft hand.

I used fusible knit interfacing for the front placket/pocket reinforcement/pocket flaps/sleeve placket. Not a huge fan of the plasticky feel of the backing, but it works for soft stabilization. For the collar, collar band, and cuffs I used a lightweight woven interfacing. I’m not sure but I think it was Pellon SF-101 Shape Flex.

The buttons are from WAWAK. I find they are the best value, you can get 144 for less than $7 and it’s not such a gamble on quality like buying from Amazon.

Size/Alterations

Based on my measurements I cut a size Y for the best/shoulders/sleeves, a W for the waist, and BB for the hips and hem length. From there I added 1” length to the sleeves. I probably only needed 1/2-3/4” extra length but I always go long with flannel because I feel like no matter how much you prewash/dry on hot, it still ends up slowly shrinking over time. I also added 3/4” width to the sleeves at the bicep and elbow, tapering to nothing at the cuff. I’m not sure the extra width was necessary but RTW shirt sleeves are usually too tight so I always err on the side of adding more room. It can always be trimmed off if necessary.

Construction

Cutting took me quite a lot in both time and extra fabric due to trying my best to pattern match the plaid.

When it comes to shirts I find there often a few different ways of accomplishing the same thing, so while I give the instructions a glance I often depend on instructions from a variety of resources.

For the collar and collar band pieces I trimmed all seam allowances down to 1/4”, with the exception of the seam where the collar band attaches to the shirt neck. I just find it’s easy to manage both seam allowance accuracy and bulk with 1/4” instead of 3/8” seam allowances.

I use the thread method for collars now. It involves some precision getting the thread and your needle in the right position but once you turn out the corner it comes out so much sharper than if you trim and then push it out like most sewing instructions have you do. I use this same method for cuffs and really anything else where you need to turn out a sharp corner.

I used Pam Erny’s tutorial for shirt sleeve plackets. Her tutorial is probably the best out there. Something about splitting the placket piece into two where the slit is instead and keeping the folded edge squared off instead of angled helps me get a more professional end result.

I sewed all the buttons on using my new button sewing foot. It certainly makes the process much quicker, but I prefer the function of a hand sewn button as you can add a shank when sewing to make things sit smoother, especially when it’s a thicker fabric like this.

Conclusion

I’m pretty happy with this shirt and plan on making the shirtdress length version in the future as well. I just wish Jalie included short sleeve length as well as full length sleeves with the pattern, since it seems like it would make such a nice summer dress.

Second Jelly Roll Rug: Cottage Bloom

Fabric: Cottage Bloom from Craftido.

A few different things about this one from my first one.

I finally bought replacement legs for my Janome’s extension table, so I had that properly set up this time instead of it being balanced on some books. I also worked on my dining room table when it came time to zigzag the edges together. As the rug grew I was careful to push away anything that could bump up against it, like the chairs opposite from me. What a difference it made! It was much easier getting a flat rug this time.

I decided to try to blend the thread colors with the fabric instead of using one color like I did for my first one. I like the more subtle look.

I also applied Gotta Grip-It rug fixative to the bottom after sewing. I have mostly hardwood floors in my house, which is downright dangerous when paired with a jelly roll rug. For my first rug I bought a rug pad to put underneath but didn’t like how it kept sliding out, so I decided to try something more permanent. With Gotta Grip-It you just paint on a thin layer and let it dry. It paints on white but dries clear, and once it’s finished drying it creates a tacky finish on the bottom of the rug. Aside from texture, the only indication Gotta Grip-It is there is a slight sheen.

After trying it on this rug, I am in love. It really keeps the rug in place! No rug pad sliding out, and the rug can still be washed.

With this particular rug I didn’t do a great job rounding the first few corners, and as a result they’re kind of squished. I was working with my toddler playing around me and wasn’t able to press as I went, so I just did my best with my fingers. I do think in the future it is worth taking the time to press as you round the first few corners.

Sew Can She Boxy Zipper Pouch

Pattern Background

The Boxy Zipper Pouch, available for free from Sew Can She, is a small zippered structured pouch with optional side tabs and side pockets. All but the side seams are finished with self fabric binding. Approximate finished dimensions are 6” x 4.5” x 3”.

Materials

Suggested fabric for the exterior and interior is quilting cotton. I used a 100% cotton shirting from Fabric Mart which was left over from making my son a shirt a few weeks ago.

Suggested materials for the interfacing are foam stabilizer, quilt batting, or fusible fleece. I used Bosal In-R-Foam Plus single sided foam stabilizer from WAWAK.

The zipper was part of a #4.5 handbag zipper assortment from Amazon.

Construction

I never quilted anything before and felt like this was a low risk project to start with. I started off by fusing my foam to the lining, and then sprayed the other side of the foam with quilt basting spray and laid the fabric on top of it. Then I quilted it on my Juki TL-2010Q, choosing to do a 1/2″ diamond pattern.

Sew Can She has a pattern piece available for download, but also gives guidance on how to draw the pattern directly onto your fabric using a ruler. I chose to take her advice and drew lines directly onto the fabric after quilting it. I’m not sure if the binding was supposed to be on the bias or not, but I always cut my binding on the bias so that’s what I did here too. Rather than cut to the lengths specified I just cut strips and then trimmed them down to the correct length after stitching.

While you have to scroll through a zillion ads, the pattern is free and there’s plenty of photos showing step by step how to construct this pouch. By the time you’re done you get a nice little bag with a clean finish inside. However when it came to adding the binding by the zipper and tab my Juki started to struggle with all the layers where the zipper tape and teeth were, and I had to slow way, way down and baby it through this part. If your machine isn’t the most powerful I would recommend skipping the side tabs to reduce bulk in this area.

Sew Can She recommends either zigzagging the raw edges after sewing the side seams or binding them. I had just run out of bobbin thread so instead of doing binding I finished them on my serger.

After I was done, I found I had to fold the bag by the corners and give it a little press with my iron to help guide it into a true box shape.

Conclusion

While I find the tabs handy for zipping and unzipping, I don’t find the side pockets terribly useful. However they are cut from the scraps of the main bag, so it is no big deal to cut them out and add them on.

My intention for this bag is to make several of them to contain things like sewing machine needles, clips, etc. As a result, I really like the structure the foam adds to the bag. It gives such a sturdy, solid feel while still staying lightweight. I do think in the future I will stick to sew-in foam though. The fusible is convenient but I find it just doesn’t give as nice of a look as the non-fusible side.

I recommend checking out the Sew She Can website if you have any interest in making bags, quilts, home organization items, crafts, etc. There’s a ton of free patterns with good tutorials there for all sorts of stuff.

“Semi Industrial” vs Industrial Sewing Machines

Calculating the Power of a Sewing Machine

Very good article I came across analyzing sewing machine power.

I’m in a lot of various Facebook sewing groups and one thing I see posted all the time, particular those that have a lot of people sewing bags, is if someone should get a higher end domestic, “semi-industrial”, or industrial machine. I have one from each group: a computerized domestic (Janome Memory Craft 6500P), a semi industrial (Juki TL-2010Q), and industrial (Seiko STH-8BLD-3 compound walking foot). My point of this post is to give honest feedback from someone who is an experienced home sewer of 20+ years and has absolutely nothing to gain from someone buying one type or brand of sewing machine vs another.

I also want to add that my focus is on new machines, not vintage. Yes, vintage machines are often great but you’re often taking a chance on their condition, not to mention it can be hard to find exactly what you want depending on where you live and when you want to buy.

Domestic Machines

These are the machines everyone who is a home sewer is familiar with and I assume you already have, so I don’t need to elaborate much further. I just wanted to note here that my Janome Memory Craft 6500P, which was probably a midrange to higher end model at its time, can do about 1000 stitches a minute and the motor works out to about 1/10 horsepower. I’ve sewn some heavier stuff on this machine, but one occasion have also pushed it to its limits and knocked it out of time in the process of doing so. My mechanic was able to fix it, but it was still a pain to get repaired. Just because it can fit under the presser foot it doesn’t mean your machine can necessarily handle it without a lot of extra help in the form of jump jumpers, slow speed, or even just manually turning the wheel yourself. The higher end models are probably stronger, but are stupidly expensive (think $10-20k) and IMO you’re primarily paying for more capabilities (like the ability to embroider) and more throat space rather than strength. People make a big deal about having a free arm too, but I’ve never seen the use for one. (Haven’t they heard of turning it inside out and working from the inside??)

Semi Industrial Machines

The Juki TL series falls under this, along with the Janome HD-9. There is sometimes some controversy about the term “semi industrial” (particularly among the prior but I think it is a fairly accurate term. These machines retain the lighter weight and portability of domestics (along with creature comforts like automatic thread cutting) while taking some of the features of industrials like the reverse stitch lever (SUPER handy to not have to look for a button when wanting to backstitch) and ability to use industrial machine feet. Industrial machine feet can be found very cheap if you go generic and often perform better than domestic machine feet. I bought a bunch of compensating feet from Amazon and they just work so much better than the regular topstitching feet on my Janome.

Many of the semi industrials, like my Juki TL-2010Q, also have speed control. These machines tend to be a bit faster and able to better handle heavier projects. They do just one thing but they do it well. I LOVE sewing shirts on this machine.

The disadvantage is that unlike an ordinary domestic they are straight stitch only, and not as strong and durable as an actual industrial. You can technically do buttonholes on the TL series, but you need a separate attachment. Then official Juki buttonhole attachment is $500, which is why a lot of people end up buying a separate domestic just for buttonholes if they don’t already have one. Vintage Griest/Singer etc buttonhole attachments can be found much cheaper (under $50) but since you’re depending on the secondhand market, you never know about availability and if all the pieces are included. These vintage buttonholers also depend on separate metal templates so you’re also limited to whatever size you have on hand instead of being able to set whatever size you want, like with the Juki buttonhole attachment or a domestic.

After using it for a couple of months, I find that the Juki TL-2010Q is not as strong as some claim. It is stronger and faster for sure than my Janome, and I think the motor works out to 1/6 horsepower (vs the 1/10 of the Janome). But when I was sewing a tote bag made from a tightly woven medium weight 100% cotton twill and nylon webbing straps, it tripped up. When sewing the section where the strap goes over a lot of layers of the twill, it just stopped. It didn’t steady to struggle, it outright stalled and would not go. I had to do the hand wheel to get it through that particular section. I know my industrial would have gone through this section without all this extra effort. I’ve seen various videos of how the TL series can “sew through anything” and pretty much all of them are going slowly and you can hear the machine motor working harder. That doesn’t mean it isn’t strong, but I do feel like many people overstate its capabilities because they’re coming from having only used a domestic before.

I also feel like the Juki is not as solidly built as some claim. Sure it doesn’t have as much plastic, but some of the parts (like the thread guide) feel a little bit delicate. The good thing though is that these machines are generally more user serviceable than the domestics, and as you can see Juki Junkies sells a lot of replacement parts and has information on how to replace them yourself. You’d probably still need a mechanic for something like a timing issue, but at least some issues can be resolved yourself.

One last annoyance with the TL series is that you can’t stick a magnetic seam guide past the needle plate. With my industrial I can stick the seam guide anywhere on the machine.

While it has limitations my TL-2010Q is my favorite machine to sew on. I feel like I have the most control over it, and it feeds the fabric beautifully. I love the automatic needle position down and the ability to cut the thread from the foot pedal. It has a decent amount of speed and I have far less issues topstitching collar bands now. Even though I feel it is overrated for heavy projects, I can see why it has such a cult following. It is heavily marketers towards bag makers and quilters, but I also think it is a great machine for garment sewers in my position that want to step up their game but don’t have the room for an industrial.

Industrials

These machines are strong and powerful. They have a dedicated table (typically 48” x 20”) the machine head sits into, and the motor, which is around 1/2 horsepower, is bolted under the table on the side. I’m focusing on lockstitch machines (straight stitch) but there is also dedicated double needle, zig zag, etc industrials. They are not only for heavy materials! Plenty of them, like the Juki DDL-8700, are designed just for light to medium weight fabrics. (Think about it: the factories pushing out silk blouses and crisp buttondown shirts are using industrials, not domestic or Juki TLs.)

My Seiko STH-8BLD-3 is a compound walking foot machine. These machines are designed for medium to very heavy materials. The foot is actually a two section foot with a small inner foot and larger outer foot. The foot, needle, and bottom feed dogs all synchronize to feed the fabric through. It is awesome for thick layers and sewing things like canvas, multiple layers of foam, and cowhide leather. Unlike my Janome and Juki, I don’t have to baby it at all. It just sews through everything as fast as I want without needing hump jumpers or stopping and using the hand wheel. I’ve hemmed bull denim weight jeans for my dad with flat felled seams on this machine before and there was no need to slow down. It just punched right through even the flat felled section without any struggle at all. When I sewed my denim Jalie tote I was able to turn on a dime and fly through whatever section was being sewn without having to do anything special. I think it can do 2000-2500 stitches per minute, with that range depending on the stitch length.

While the Juki TL series maxes out at a size 18 needle, my Seiko can take up to a size 24 needle. I have to use at least 40 Tex weight thread (Gutermann Mara 70) because the tension simply isn’t made to handle lighter thread like Gutermann Mara 100/120. Unlike the Juki TL series or a domestic it excels at handling the really thick stuff like Gutermann Mara 30 (Tex 100 weight).

Another nice thing about industrials is that there’s none of the gatekeeping of domestics. You can tweak them however you want and can make it last a lifetime. My owners manual for the Seiko has sections on how to adjust the timing, adjust the height of the feed dogs (not just drop them but actually adjust how high they are), and all sorts of other stuff that a domestic manual would need, ever show you how to do. Check out the post by Wizcrafts for an example of just how much you can do to customize a machine like this for whatever it is you want to sew. There is a decent amount of information out there on maintaining and repairing industrials yourself, and parts are typically not difficult to get if you have one of the more common models.

My Seiko is around 14 years old now and uses the old fashioned clutch style motor. Clutch motors suck because speed control is difficult (though I’ve gotten better) and they are running whether you are sewing or not, which is noisy and energy consuming. I don’t think they even sell new machines with them anymore. Fortunately industrial motors are pretty easy to swap out. My plan in the next year or so is to swap out the current clutch motor for the Kinedyne 750SL. The Kinedyne 750SL, in addition to letting me sew more easily at a much slower pace while keeping the same torque, also has a needle position sensor option which would allow me to always stop with the needle up or down (a feature I love on my Juki and Janome).

As far as price, it depends on the type of machine you get but in general they are not that much more than the Juki TL series, especially considering the table is usually included. However shipping costs push it up another $200-300 because they tend to be drop shipped by freight. The flipside is that depending on your market you can find these used for much less. Look around for tailors that are retiring or sewing factories going out of business.

The main disadvantage to industrials is the size and lack of portability and versatility.

As I mentioned before, the machine head sits into a dedicated table. The table top is custom cut to fit the machine head and can only be used for that machine. While you can get casters to help with moving it around, this is not a situation like with the Juki TL series or a domestic where you can easily bring it up or down stairs or travel to a class with it. And with a 48×20” table, you’re going to need to have a decent amount of space to put it in. Not something you can tuck away when it’s not being used. The machine heads are also VERY heavy compared to a domestic. My Seiko STH-8BLD-3 machine head is somewhere around 65 pounds. It is entirely metal and feels like a tank. The table is another 50 pounds and the clutch motor is another 40 pounds or so (though the newer servo motors are much lighter). Not easy to transport to the sewing machine mechanic. You’re probably going to have to have one come to your house.

These machines are made for very specific purposes. When I sewed the bag lining of my tote I had to switch to a domestic because between the heavier feed dogs and immense pressure and tension, I simply wouldn’t have gotten acceptable results on the Seiko. It would result in a puckered fabric with thread about to snap. For lighter stuff like that you’d need something like the Juki DDL-8700. Which means another machine with a 48×20” table. Not something that works in my current lifestyle. But with the Juki TL series you can sew a lining on the same machine as you’re sewing the rest of the bag on.

One particular machine that someone specializing in bag making may want to look into is an industrial cylinder bed machine with a flatbed attachment. They make getting into really tight areas much easier (they are kind of like the free arm of the industrial world). This is what they sew shoes, little wallets, etc on commercially. The downside is that they are not nearly as good at sewing big flat panels, even with the flatbed attachment. But some bagmakers have them and love them.

Conclusion

While I am very happy with my Juki TL-2010Q, if I had the space I would have bought the Juki DDL-8700 instead.

I would say go with an industrial if you:

have the space
don’t need portability
want a true “buy it for life” machine
want the ability to repair and customize it yourself
want to quickly and effortlessly sew medium heavy materials and/or do upholstery projects in addition to bag making (this is more specific to compound walking foot machines)
have a good local market of used machines – you can find one used for 1/2 or even 1/4 the price of a new TL series

Look into the TL series if you:

have limited space and/or need to stash the machine away in a separate space between projects
want to travel with the machine
work primarily with light to medium weight fabrics and want something more powerful and refined than a regular domestic