My Greatest Creation

My little boy turned six months old this month!

The past 6+ months have been some of the most hardest of my entire life! Despite being a stay at home mom I’m busier than ever…I don’t know how anyone could possibly be bored on maternity leave. They require so much care, and there’s always something to do! I guess it doesn’t help I have a Velcro baby that wants to be held all the time and can’t bear to have me out of his sight, so getting stuff done around the house is very challenging.

Last summer my husband and I had our offer accepted on a house we really liked (after searching for 2+ years). Then about two weeks later (right after the last inspection was completed) I was in the hospital getting induced at 38 weeks due to gestational hypertension. I had actually left my job a month before my due date, thinking it would give me time to rest and deal with home buying…joke was on me! I wasn’t too happy about the sudden need for an induction, but I also realized that my swelling and blood pressure weren’t getting any better, my medical team was getting increasingly worried, and it was the best way to avoid an emergency situation. We ended up closing on the house when my son was about six weeks old.

While we were working on some house repairs/renovations prior to moving in, we were also dealing with breastfeeding issues. My son had a lip and tongue tie that made nursing very painful for me and inefficient for him. But I was determined to not give up breastfeeding without a fight. So I was pumping around the clock while we were working with a lactation consultant on getting that resolved. The good news is that the lactation consultant was amazing, and after her oversight and a lot of care on our end (pediatric dentist, round the clock post-op tongue tie release stretches and training exercises, weekly pediatric occupational therapy sessions plus home exercises, etc) he was nursing much, much better. It helped a LOT that my husband had a full twelve weeks paid paternity leave. But immediately after resolving the tongue tie issue we discovered he had all sorts of food intolerances. It started off with dairy, but along the way I also discovered his intolerances extended to beef, wheat, soy, coconut, sweet potato, bananas, legumes (peanuts, beans, guar gum, etc), pumpkin, corn, and grapes. I can’t eat any of those foods now. And since food labels are often not 100% transparent, I have to make all my food from scratch now. I live on pork, chicken, potatoes, rice, some vegetables, garden salads, almonds, oats, berries, apples, and pears. I also have a limited selection of homemade cassava flour baked goods recipes that seem to work. It was very, very difficult (especially around the holidays) but now I’m kind of used to it. It is worth it when I see how he’s sleeping so much better, not crying as much, not in pain, smiles a lot, and is generally thriving. Everyone always remarks on how alert he is and how bright his eyes are.

In the meantime we were also dealing with moving. I had hoped to use the time after leaving my job before my due date to work on packing, but with suddenly getting induced two weeks early I had no time for that. So with the help of my dad and some family friends and lots of trips with my vehicle back and forth between the old and new residence, we moved everything into our new home bit by bit. It was a huge pain in the butt (I seriously considered just giving up sewing and throwing all of my fabric and supplies into a dumpster rather than move it all) but we eventually got it all moved to our new home. 0/10 do not recommend moving with a young infant though!

After closing on the house of course we found all sorts of expensive issues with the house the rather sketchy seller had covered up. I have no regrets about buying though, we are finally settled and the house is in an excellent location and neighborhood with a decent lot. It is roomy enough for our growing family, and for the first time ever I have a dedicated sewing room. We did the best we could considering the extremely low inventory in my state. But between caring for the baby, trying to unpack, and trying to fix all the things wrong with the house I’ve been way too busy to even think about using said sewing room! The last time I sewed was June, when I made my final Style Arc Richie tunic dress. The photo below is the only one I have of it – I ran out of time for photos before giving birth. It did make a great summer maternity dress though. I used a modal rayon/Lycra jersey.

I also made a couple of Burda 6/2010 #132 maternity dresses. I made this one out of a cotton/lycra jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics. Unfortunately these are the only two photos I have of it.

Now that our family has settled into a routine, I’m more recovered from the pregnancy and birth (and getting used to the sleep deprivation), and we have addressed the most urgent issues with the house, I’ve finally started thinking about sewing again. My son is getting baptized in the spring and will need a christening outfit, so I’m hoping to start working on that soon.

By some miracle I managed to find a white Irish linen I bought back in 2020 from Fabric Mart. Still not sure how fancy I want to get with it, but I’ve started cracking open some books I have about heirloom sewing machine techniques.

Jalie 2919: Pleated Cardigan

Worn with my navy Style Arc maternity pants

I actually made this back in February. In early March I was finally starting to feel well enough to work on taking photos, and then I got covid (along with my husband, parents, and one of my brothers). Somehow all of us avoided it for three years, only to get it this spring!

Background

Jalie 2919 is a basically one of those tunic length “waterfall” style cardigans. The pleats help keep the volume at the top in control, with the fabric starting to let out at the waist. The sleeves are cut very long to allow for scrunching. Plan on shortening them if you want them to just be normal full length sleeves.

Jalie had this listed in their maternity/baby category. I think this is a great top for pregnancy because it helps hide everything in the first trimester, still fits once you start getting a bump, and then will continue to fit postpartum.

Materials

For this cardigan you’re going to want to use a lighter weight knit with lots of drape and 4-way stretch. Rayon/lycra or modal/lycra jersey is perfect. A thinner cotton/lycra jersey would also work.

My first cardigan was made from a rayon/lycra jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics, purchased recently during Ann’s big anniversary sale. It is super soft and stretchy, and I love cuddling up in it! I meant to take photos of it today, but completely forgot about it until after I had already taken down my reflector, camera, etc. Oops!

My second cardigan, which is in the photos, was also a Gorgeous Fabrics rayon/lycra jersey. Another super soft knit with wonderful drape. The colors are so beautifully muted and perfect for springtime.

Fit

I made a size V, which corresponds to a 37″ bust (my measurement at the time).

Tapered out to a size Z for the hip
Lengthened between bust and waist 3/4″
3/8″ forward shoulder alteration
3/8″ sloped shoulder alteration
I lengthened the sleeves 3/4″ before realizing that they were already drafted to be really long (and with my brain fog I failed to notice this on the pattern model). I ended up shortening them at the hem 2″ – and that is after removing the 3/4″ length I added.

Notes

Jalie has you stitch the pleats from the inside then just baste them in place at the neckline. Instead of stitching I basted the pleats from the inside, then topstitched them in place from shoulder to waist (about where they end). I think it looks a bit more finished and does a better job keeping them in place during washing.

Ottobre Family 7/2018, #14: Maternity Tee

Background

This pattern is a basic fitted maternity t-shirt top, with 3/4 sleeves and gathering at the front side seams. The scoop neckline is finished with 5/8″ width binding.

Ottobre suggests this top for the the third trimester, but I am still in my second trimester and found that it was just what I needed. Maternity clothes just feel more comfortable at this point, even if I’m not completely filling them out yet.

Alterations

I first started off with a size 42, with the following alterations:

3/8″ sloped shoulder alteration
3/8″ forward shoulder alteration
Lengthened 1″
Shortened the sleeves to short sleeve length (the underarm seam is about 2″ long)
Added about 1/2″ width to each sleeve
Added 4″ to the hips

After making it up I found out that despite my pear shaped figure the hips were far too wide and the hem was flaring out. Overall it just seemed too big everywhere. Even the gathering was too low because it wasn’t properly snugging against my figure.

So for my next try I sized down to 40, which is probably close to what my pre-pregnancy size was. I cut a straight size 40, with no extra room at the hips, and left the length the same as my size 42 pattern. While I had to snug up the sleeves where they attach to the bodice at the side seam, I did my best to maintain the extra 1/2″ I had added with my first version. The fit this time was far better. This is one of the few instances where going with my pre-pregnancy size actually worked!

Materials

Both of my tops were made out of jerseys with four-way stretch, though the striped fabric has less stretch than the seafoam green one. Both of the fabrics used for the tops photographed are from the Etsy seller Koshtex. Each length of fabric was about 60″ and with careful layout, each top took about a yard of fabric.

My first version was a modal/lycra jersey. Even though the description calls it aqua and shows a bright blue, the fabric I actually received was closer to a seafoam green.

My second version was a 1/4″ black and off-white striped tencel/poly/lycra jersey. This one had the least amount of stretch out of all the fabrics I used, and the fabric feels slightly less delicate due to the polyester content. It was wonderful to work with!

To stabilize the shoulder seams I used superfine straight Design Plus stay tape. (I can never seem to get 1/4″ clear elastic to work on my serger.) For gathering the front side seams I used 3/8″ clear elastic.

Pattern and Construction Notes

The instructions tell you to use clear elastic to gather the front side seams between the notches to 12cm (about 4.75″). I found when making my size 42 top that this wasn’t quite enough. On the back pattern piece there’s a couple of notches at the side seam. Gather the side seams to match this length instead (which for my size 40 I think was closer to around 3.5″).

When gathering with the clear elastic, I stretch it before even cutting it off the spool. I then cut a length longer than I need so that there is a “tail” to hold onto when starting and ending the gathering and mark the length needed for the pattern with a Sharpie pen. I use a Teflon foot on my sewing machine and put the elastic on top of the fabric so it is against the Teflon foot and not the feed dogs. I set my machine to a 4.0mm width and 3.5mm length zigzag stitch and carefully match the edge of the elastic to the edge of the fabric, stretching it as I sew along. I try to sew closer to the edge, without actually hitting the cut edge of the fabric and edge of the elastic. When I sew the front to the back I always sew with the clear elastic facing up and not against the feed dogs. Doing all this gives me perfect gathering with no tunneling, and the zigzag is hidden within the serged edge of the fabric.

The instructions have you sew one shoulder seam, then bind the neckline and then sew the other shoulder seam. I found I had a harder time doing it this way and instead sewed both shoulder seams and then bound the neckline. It just seems like it is easier to get the binding evenly stretched this way. I also sewed the sleeve caps to the top flat (ie before sewing the side seams) instead of in the round (sewing the side seams of the top, the sleeve side seams, then attaching the sleeve cap to the bodice). It seemed both quicker and easier this way, especially when I was working with the striped fabric. I didn’t get the stripes perfectly lined up at the side seams, but they’re good enough!

I used my sewing machine to gather the front side seams, but otherwise this was entirely constructed on my serger. The hems and the edge of the neckline binding were all finished using my coverstitch machine. Since the neckline binding part can be so thick with all the layers of fabric I lengthened the stitch from 3.0mm to 3.5mm so the stitching would appear normal length and not super tiny.

Overall I’m really happy with this top, and it is just what I need to get through the spring and summer. So easy in the cooler spring mornings to just pop a denim jacket over it and be on my way! I can make each one for less than $10 and it takes a max of 1.5 hours now. I find that RTW maternity clothing is either expensive ($39 for this maternity t-shirt) or the fabric is poor quality. I guess they figure they can get away with it since in the first case people just pay whatever it costs in order to have something that fits, and in the second case most people aren’t wearing maternity clothes longer than a few months so they just put up with it.

Ottobre Spring/Summer 2/2013, #19: Twist Neckline Dress

Overview

Ottobre 2/2013 #19 is a V-neck knee length knit dress with a twist front, three-quarters slim sleeves, pleats directly below the bust, A-line skirt, and gathered waistband overlay. The front bodice is self lined.

Ottobre also offers this dress as a tunic-length top.

For those of you who aren’t familiar with Ottobre, they are an independent pattern company based out of Finland. They primarily publish pattern magazines for women and children, though in past years have also had the occasional “family” issue with patterns for men as well.

Ottobre specializes in a Scandinavian sort of style – simple, minimalist, functional basics that are comfortable to wear. Sexy, extravagent Marfy they are not! They often feature a wide range of sizes and use ordinary people as their models rather than professional fashion models as they are adamant that they want to represent the average person sewing their patterns, rather than a fashion world ideal. I once saw someone online scoff at Ottobre as “clothing for housewives.” Well, I’m going to be a housewife/stay-at-home mom soon enough, so that works for me!

Alterations

I started from a size 42 and made the following alterations:

3/8″ sloped shoulder alteration
3/8″ forward shoulder alteration
Added a total of 5″ to the hips
Removed 1″ from the back waist and transferred 1″ to the front waist

I probably could have cinched in the side seams a little more directly below the bust, but I decided to leave it alone. I went from a 32/34 bra band pre-pregnancy to a solid 36 band, and there’s a good chance my ribcage (along with everything else!) will continue to increase as my pregnancy gets further along. (I’m about six months along at this point). I’m trying to make my clothes last as long as possible these days so I’m all about stretchy fabrics and a slightly looser fit. I am apparently not one of those lucky women that just gets a cute little bump and more or less stays the same everywhere else!

Materials

The fabric I used was a stretchy purple knit from Gorgeous Fabrics (still some in stock). I believe it is mismarked as while the description says rayon/lycra jersey, the dry hand and slightly stiffer drape feels more like a cotton/lycra jersey.

I used 3/8″ clear elastic to gather the skirt pieces at the center front and center back, and superfine Design Plus fusible stay tape to stabilize the shoulder seams and neckline.

Notes

This is a great second trimester dress, especially for the pear shaped. The skirt and gathering provide so much room during a time when regular clothes are getting harder to fit but full-on maternity tops and dresses are still too roomy in the belly. It would also be great for that awkward time earlier in pregnancy where you’re more bloat than baby. It is really, really comfortable! I also like the deep V neckline, which helps a lot with feeling less frumpy. So many RTW maternity clothes are rather modest at the neckline, which doesn’t make sense to me because this is the first time for a lot of us where we actually have a bust!

I found the front twist detail rather maddening, both to understand and sew. I was struggling with some lingering fatigue from my bout of Covid in mid March, and it took me a while to figure out what certain parts of the instructions meant when making the insert at the center front where the twist detail is. Then, I found it just as maddening and fussy to actually sew the front twist detail at the center front, as you are working around a lot of bulk with the twist detail and a small seam allowance. I ended up sewing this section on my sewing machine using a zigzag stitch because it was simply too tight and bulky for my serger presser foot. But once I got that part figured out the dress went together very easily, and I had it done in time to wear for Easter a few weeks ago.

Jalie 3896: Émilie Top

A few quick photos before it snows again!

Background

Jalie 3896 is a square shaped funnel neck top with fitted sleeves. This is a free pattern, available for download from the Jalie website. This is a very quick and technically simple project – with minimal distractions you can download, print, assemble, cut, sew, and finish this top all in one evening!

Jalie patterns include a very wide range of sizes, with a lot of the patterns going from children to plus size. This pattern is also set up with the sizes as layers, so when you print it out you can print ONLY the size(s) you want. I love this feature! You just go to the left sidebar, click on the Layers icon, and then click on the eyes of all the sizes you don’t need. I wish every pattern download had this feature.

For many years now I favored more streamlined looks, with a lot of waist emphasis. I loved knee-length wrap and A-line dresses, bootcut pants with fitted tops that hit just below mid hip length, fitted jackets, etc. After 35 I gained a small amount of weight, but still kept my small waist and flat belly and only had to make minor adjustments in woven clothing styles (basically tracing halfway between my original size and the next size up). In fact I hardly sewed for several years because I was perfectly happy with my wardrobe and saw no need to change things. When you sew your own clothes they last a long time! But right now with pregnancy rapidly changing my body I have to start going in a different direction. My flat belly, defined waist, and modest bust are pretty much gone at this point and out of sheer necessity (rather than personal preference) I’m looking towards slim leg pants and the oversized/boxy shirts, dresses, and jackets that are so popular right now…you know, stuff that is comfortable and will still fit in a month. It feels very strange. I haven’t had to do a wardrobe change this significant since I was about 22 and going from college student to working a full-time white collar professional job.

That being said, while it is fine for casual loungewear I don’t love this look and won’t make it again. I think this would work better on someone smaller busted (never thought I’d say those words) and has a more straight up and down figure. There’s a reason why they picked kids and a very slim woman for their pattern envelope models! But it was very quick to make and in the meantime provides me something to wear for when I go for afternoon walks with my husband (which I am finally physically capable of again, yay!)

Fit

I started with a size W, which corresponds to my current 38″ bust measurement. From here I:

Added 4″ width to the hip. Even though this is a very roomy style, my thin, clingy knit made me want to err on the side of caution.
Lengthened 1.5″ at the hem
Added 1/2″ length to the sleeves. After making it up I saw it wasn’t necessary. The sleeves as drafted are definitely on the long side! Plus I’m still used to sewing my old size where everything was drafted shorter, plus this fabric is stretchier than what the pattern was drafted for so that alone adds some extra length.

I would say if you make this, consider sizing down, especially if you use a stretchier knit.

Materials

The fabric I used was a very lightweight poly sweater knit I purchased back in late 2020 from Fabric Mart Fabrics. I believe I originally bought this to make a wrap dress, but when I got it I felt like it was too lightweight and stretchy for this project. I set it aside, figuring I would eventually find a suitable project. Despite being polyester it is soft and isn’t prone to static (my two major complaints about a lot of polyester knits). It is also surprisingly cozy considering how thin it is.

Construction

I made this entirely on my serger, then followed up with hemming on my coverstitch machine. Everything went together smoothly! Jalie has technical drawings as well as written instructions to guide you along. This is a great project for a beginner.