Style Arc Delta Cargo Pants

I made these pants with the intention of them being lightweight outdoor work pants. I help out a lot with yard work at my parents’ house now and weed whacking is a perilous task with shorts. So I wanted something full length that would be lightweight, breathable, and comfortable to wear in the heat. The Delta provide plenty of range of motion despite the non stretch fabric so I’m pretty happy with them.

Shown with one of the several Jalie Tina t-shirts I’ve made recently.

Pants hem. Lots of double row topstitching throughout these pants.

Pattern Background

The Style Arc Delta is a relaxed fit cargo pants pattern. There’s back patch pockets, faux front fly, and slash side pockets along with side cargo pockets with flaps. The elasticized waist is cut to be just slightly larger than the body hip measurement, which allows you to get them on while eliminating bulk at the waist as much as possible.

As you can see from the back leg piece, the leg is slightly tapered at the hem rather than being a true wide leg from knee to hem. I actually prefer this as it makes for a more controlled silhouette, and you don’t have to worry about your hem dragging the ground or getting soaked when it rains.

Size and Alterations

I made a size 20, with the following alterations:

Lengthened the legs 1”
Added 2.5” height to the back crotch curve, tapering to 1” at the side seam and then to nothing at the center front
My finished measurement for the waist elastic ended up being 34.25”, which is between size 16 and 18.
Since I made these to be summer outdoor work pants and the fabric is fairly thing for pants fabric, I added another layer of fabric to the knee area for more durability.

Fabric and Materials

I used the same 100% cotton Robert Kaufman fineline twill fabric from Fabric Mart that I used for my Jalie Denyse shorts.

Note: even though Style Arc only gives the yardage estimate for 58” fabric, I was able to use 44” wide fabric. My size 20 with a few length alterations and doubled up knee fabric took 3.25 yards.

For the waistband elastic I used some 1.5” non-roll Stretch-Rite elastic I had in my stash. It comes in a small retail package so I must have gotten it from Joann’s at some point.

The thread is Gutermann Mara 100 from Wawak.

The interfacing for the pocket flaps is Pellon Shape-Flex from Wawak.

Construction

I constructed these entirely on my Jukie TL-2010Q. The standard foot on it is fantastic for a project like this with the double row of topstitching because you can use the very inner edge of the foot as a guide for the first row of stitching so it is 1/16” away from the edge, and then switch to using the scant 1/4” outside as a guide against the first row of stitching. Eyeballing it works great, no need to switch out for guide feet.

When I did the waistband I wasn’t sure what my finished elastic measurement would need to be since this non-roll elastic is stiffer than my usual knit elastic. To better manage this I used the same method as my Jalie shorts where you sew the center back seam for the waistband but leave a 1” opening inside, then use that to thread the elastic through and trial it before trimming and sewing it. Then I hand stitched the opening closed.

Comparison to the Jalie Denyse

These two patterns seem similar, with similar finished measurements, but the drafting is actually quite different. I would say that in general the Delta is a trouser style draft and the Denyse is more of a slacks style draft. An explanation of trouser vs slack vs jeans crotch curves can be found in this old Pattern Review post. Just for reference, the Jalie Denyse is size CC and the Style Arc Delta is a size 20. These are the corresponding sizes for a 48.5” hip.

Overall the Style Arc Delta has a much higher rise than the Denyse: about 1.5” in the back and 2.5” in the front. The back crotch curve of the Delta is also straighter, with a more scooped out back crotch curve. The Denyse is definitely more angled, with a shallower crotch curve. In the photo below I’ve overlaid the Denyse on top of the Delta. They are actually really similar measurements from hip to center back seam, but the Denyse has it shifted more towards the side so the back crotch curve ends more angled.

Here’s a comparison with the Delta on the left and the Denyse on the right.

Now for the front crotch curve comparison.

The Denyse rise is 2.5” lower in the front than the Delta.

Unfortunately the Delta crotch curve paper got a little crumpled but you can see how the Delta is much shallower and taller compared to the shorter, more scooped out curve of the Demyse.

Here they are overlaid, with the Denyse on top of the Delta. (Note that the Jalie Denyse has inseam pockets and the Delta has front slash pockets, so that’s why the top of the Delta is a lot smaller than the Denyse.) As with the back piece the distribution of the pants is so the fabric is shifted to the side seam, so you get the same amount of width across the hip despite it appearing smaller in the photo below.

Now heres the front view of the Denyse and Delta respectively. Keep in mind they’re the exact same fabric.

So despite appearing to have similar style and ease, the drafts for these patterns are actually quite different. The Jalie Denyse feels and looks a bit slimmer than the Delta. To me neither one is better or worse. It depends on your body type and what look you are going for. For me, the Delta flows over my hips better. You can see how there’s no diagonal lines from the elastic to the my hips. But it also has a bit more excess fabric around the center front, which does correspond more to a trouser style crotch curve/fit. With the Denyse I definitely have more under butt wrinkles than the Delta, but again this corresponds to the Denyse having more of a slacks draft. (This is why you need to think carefully about the intended draft of a pants pattern before trying to remove every single wrinkle under your butt.)

In general I would say that Jalie is drafted more for straight hips and Style Arc is more for curvier hips. You can even see this in their size chart where the Jalie waist measurement is two centimeters (about 3/4”) larger and the hip one centimeter (3/8”) smaller than the same size would be for Style Arc. That doesn’t necessarily mean you should avoid one or the other, just be aware of it and alter accordingly.

Jalie 4347 Denyse Shorts

Pattern Description

The Jalie Denyse is a pull-on wide leg pants pattern for non-stretch woven fabrics. It comes in shorts, cropped, and full leg lengths. (Note that for cropped and full length you need to extend the length yourself. Jalie has a table of measurements for guidance on how much to extend it.) There’s back patch pockets and front inseam pockets. The elastic waist is cut slightly narrower than the hip, which helps reduce bulk at the waist.

My shirt is the Jalie Tina.

Fabric and Materials

I used a lightweight Robert Kaufman cotton twill from Fabric Mart. Unfortunately I don’t appear to have taken a screenshot when I purchased it, but it is lightweight and could almost be used for a heavier weight shirt.

I am not entirely sure where I got the 2” elastic. It may be an old Fashion Sewing Supply purchase. If not Fashion Sewing Supply then Wawak or Mandala Crafts on Amazon.

Alterations

I started with a size CC, which is slightly larger than my current hip measurement. My fabric has zero stretch/give and I’ve had some weight gain lately (the relentless demands of caring for my young and wild son and elderly stroke victim father this year is taking its toll on me) so I felt like it was better to just size up.

I added a total of 2.5” to the center back height, tapering to nothing at the center front. Technically I could have probably gotten away with just 1.5″, but I prefer my back waist to be higher than the front because I want to be fully covered when sitting or bending over.

Since my waist is smaller than my hip size I used the size Z elastic measurement.

Construction

These went together pretty quickly. I was able to get them cut and sewn and finished in about 3-3.5 hours.

I liked the construction for the waist. You see one side seam normally, but leave a one inch opening when sewing the front and back waistbands together at the other side seam. Fold and press the seam allowance for the lower edge in place. Then attach the waistband to then pants with the right side of the waistband facing the wrong side of the pants. Then you press, flip it over, and sew that edge you folded over earlier to the right side of the pants. It gives a very neat finish from the right side while fully containing the wrong side.

Conclusion

I find these shorts much more comfortable for my pear shaped figure than the Jalie 3243. My fabric has no give to it and I didn’t feel uncomfortable at all in them during the day, not even when I was squatting and sitting on the ground outside today assembling my son’s new sandbox. The wide elastic waistband is very comfortable to wear, and the 6″ inseam length of my size CC makes me feel comfortable with the amount of coverage provided. (For this reason I think it would make a really good woven shorts pattern for little kids as well as adults.) The only thing is that due to the elasticized waist combined with my “bubble butt” and narrower waist, particularly in the back, the back pockets tend to gape. This isn’t a dealbreaker for me because my shirt covers it, but something I thought I should mention as a caution to anyone with a shape like me that is considering making these.

Jalie 4132: Martin Boxer Shorts

Made these for my son last night.

Pattern Background

The Jalie Martin pattern is for men’s loungewear pants and boxer shorts. It is drafted for wovens and features a faux fly with an optional decorative button, elastic waist, and a back panel instead of a center back seam. There’s also an optional back patch pocket.

Size and Alterations

The size range goes from 2T all the way to 2X. If you pay a little bit extra you can get up to a 5X for the PDF version.

I cut a size F, which is equivalent to a 2T. The only alteration I made was adding 1/2” height to the center back. It turns out it wasn’t necessary.

The fit ended up being very similar to that shown on the Jalie models.

Fabric and Materials

I used a very lightweight 100% Robert Kaufman shirting purchased from Fabric Matt a few months ago. The elastic was from Mandala Crafts on Amazon. The button

Construction

The instructions are pretty good. This really does go together quickly and easily. I think it would be a nice project for someone who wants to try something more complex than your average pull on pants, without having to deal with zippers or pockets (aside from the optional back pocket.

I did find that I needed to snug up the waist elastic another inch.

Conclusion

I made these for my son, who is turning three years old in a few weeks. We’ve been working on potty training the past year. He’s pretty flawless when commando but struggles when he’s wearing briefs (probably because they feel too much like a diaper). These allow him to wear actual underwear without feeling snug, and as a result he’s much better at letting me know when he needs to go. He has also started trying to dress/undress himself. As a result I consider this pattern a worthy investment, especially since it seems like regular cotton woven boxer shorts for toddlers aren’t easy to find. I have no idea what his preferences will be when he’s older, but for now he seems pretty happy with these!

He’s worn these under the Jalie 3243 pull-on shorts and Jalie Henri shorts, and they fit fine under them, with no peeking out at the hem.

Another Jalie 2019 Galaxie Supernova Tote Bag

Inside card pocket, hidden inside the inner zippered pockets.

Inside organizer pockets. Easily holds a 16 oz Thermoflask bottle along with a full package of baby wipes.

Previous Jalie 2019

I really like my original Jalie 2019 bag, but during regular use I’ve found that it is just too small for my current lifestyle. I often had to leave the top unzipped because after adding a water bottle, snacks for my son, extra clothes and cloth diapers, etc I just didn’t have enough room. So this time I decided to make the larger size.

Materials

I used a 100% cotton sateen jacquard I had in my stash, purchased about eight years ago from Sawyer Brook. I had no idea at the time that this would eventually be used for a bag!

I used a white Robert Kaufman 100% cotton shirting fabric purchased a month or two ago from Fabric Mart for the lining.

Because I wanted this bag to have more structure I interfaced the bottom with Boscal single sided fusible foam and the sides with the Pellon single sided fusible foam. The only reason why I used two brands is because I didn’t have enough of the Bosal to cut the entire amount I needed for this bag. After working with both I prefer the Boscal. It is slightly firmer and in my opinion the fusing is better.

Thread was Gutermann Mara 70 from WAWAK. The zippers were from Amazon, as was the keychain leash snap.

Construction

This was constructed entirely on my Juki TL-2010Q. I did use my Janome MyLock 204D serger to finish the inside edges of the pockets because this fabric likes to fray.

Since I already made this bag before construction was a lot easier. I added the inside hidden pockets to both inside and outside pockets. I think the instructions have you do just one outside hidden pocket but it doesn’t take much longer to do both. I also made sure to pay attention to the photos so that this time all the zippers (minus the top main zipper) all face in the same direction. Since this fabric was thinner and more flexible than my interfaced denim I also found it possible this time to do the fabric zipper pull and fold over the top part of the handles in the final step.

This time I left a huge opening at the bottom of the lining this time for turning out the bag. I think I only sewed the first inch or so for each side. As a result I had no issues at all turning out the bag, despite the foam interfacing. It was easy to turn under the seam allowances and sew it shut on my machine instead of slip-stitching by hand.

Conclusion

This size, while pretty enormous for everyday use, fits my lifestyle much better. It is easier to find stuff inside. I also LOVE the keychain leash. I feel like I’m constantly misplacing my keys (because my son loves playing with them so I feel the need to always hide them) and this one feature has made my life soooo much easier.

I will say my one complaint is that the handles could be longer. I think they’re the same length for both sizes and because this bag comes up higher due to its bigger size, it is harder to sling it over my shoulder when I’m out and about.

A Jalie Bikini: 3351 Swim Shorts and 4136 Crossover Top

Pattern Background

Jalie 3351

This pattern can be used for either running or swim shorts. It has a wide waistband, side panel pockets, and built in briefs.

Per Jalie, the waistband hits around the navel for kids, a few inches below the navel for teen and smaller adult sizes, and got up around the navel again for the larger adult sizes.

The size range goes from F (2T) all the way to FF (women’s size 22/ euro 52).

This pattern is out of print now so it is only available as a PDF.

Jalie 4136

This fully lined bikini pattern has both a scoop neck and crossover versions for the top. The bikini bottoms include both a lower rise version and higher waisted versions, one of which has a self fabric tie detail.

Size range goes from 2T to 2X. Like with a lot of the newer Jalie pattern releases there’s also a PDF only version that goes from 2T to 5X, and a plus size version for 1X-5X.

Fit and Alterations

Jalie 3351 Shorts

Per my hip measurement I made a size CC. The ease was perfect.

I added 2.5” of height to the center back seam, tapering to nothing at the center front. I also added 3/8” width to the front inseam for my fuller thighs. When I was adding the elastic I sized down a couple of sizes per the elastic cutting length chart. They feel snug and secure without digging in.

After making a test version I lowered the rise 1”. They sat at the navel and just seemed too big and matronly when worn with a bikini top. They would have been fine if worn with a rashguard top or tshirt.

Jalie 4136 Bikini Top

I made a size Y. I sized down to a W for the band. I compared my underbust measurement to the size chart and W was the closest matching measurement, so that’s what I cut.

Fabric and Materials

I used a Lycra purchase from the Elingeria sometime back in 2012 (yes it has been sitting in my stash all this time). I didn’t have quite enough (these were scraps from another project from long ago) so I cut the side panel, waistband facing, and brief from a white swimwear fabric I found on Amazon. I should have read the description better because it’s kind of shimmery and I prefer matte fabrics for swimwear, but so little of it peeks out that it doesn’t really matter.

The lining for the crotch was a swimwear lining recently purchased on sale from Emma One Sock.

The 3/8” braided elastic was from the Amazon seller Mandala Crafts.

For the bikini top I used a swimwear lining fabric from Payless Fabrics on Amazon.

Construction

Jalie 3351 Shorts

The instructions are excellent and I had no issues. I really like how the waistband is constructed. The facing is cut shorter than the outside waistband, which causes the seam where the elastic, outer waistband, and waistband facing meet to be folded entirely to the inside. This completely eliminates bulk at the upper edge of the waistband, and if you’re using a different fabric for the waistband facing it won’t show through at all.

I will say that my life was made significantly easier when turning up those hems for the pockets and hems by using Design One fusible stay tape. This tape is exactly 3/8” wide so if you apply it directly along the edge you get a nice guide for folding the hem before removing the paper. I just doubled it up to make it 3/4” wide for the front and back shorts hem. It not only made turning up the hem far easier on this slippery synthetic fabric, but also made cover stitching way easier. The final result still maintained its stretch. 10/10 recommend!

Jalie 4136 Bikini Top

Like with the shorts, the instructions were excellent. I particularly liked the band construction. You zigzag the elastic to one edge, fold the other edge of the fabric up around the elastic snugly, zigzag again, trim, and then sew it directly to the rest of the top. Very neat and completely eliminates the elastic rolling inside during wear or laundering.

Conclusion

I’m extremely happy with the shorts. They fit and feel great! I wanted something I could confidently wear to the beach while playing with my little boy and these are perfect for that. Unlike with a skirt they won’t ride up in the water, and you get plenty of coverage if you’re self conscious about your lower half (which I definitely am post baby). The brief is full coverage and stays in place really well.

The bikini top feels secure and comfortable to wear. I think I am a 36C now (not sure since I haven’t worn a proper underwired bra in years now) and I feel like it gives good support. I have plans to make it as a bra top as well, because my toddler still nurses on occasion and the crossover styling makes that very convenient. (Jalie actually has a post on converting this pattern to an unlined bra top, though I would likely do a lined version for extra support.)