I topstitched all seams in place on my Juki TL-2010. I normally skip this step but I think it gives a more finished look to this finer fabric. Since this fabric is lighter weight I also self lined the hood instead of using a jersey.
Half zip style sweatshirt with collar and front kangaroo pocket. It comes in both cropped and longer hip lengths.
This sweatshirt has a roomy fit – about 8” through the bust – so you will want to pair it with something closer fitting on the bottom, especially if you make the longer length version. I wear mine with the Jalie 3022 yoga pants.
Fit and Alterations
I started with a size Y and made the following alterations:
Added a total of 4.5” to the hip.
Added a total of 6” to the hem band. As drafted there is almost 2.5” of negative ease through the bottom hem band and my alteration makes it closer to zero ease.
Lengthened the sleeves 1” which is a normal Jalie women’s pattern adjustment for me.
Added 3/4” length to the body. I actually added it at the hem instead instead of at the short/lengthen line because I wasn’t sure how I would feel about the length, so this would make it easier to chop off if I needed to. I ended up liking the length because it falls just below my widest part, so I’m going to keep the extra length. It does make the bottom of the kangaroo pocket taller this way.
At around 8” positive ease through the bust the Sophie is slightly larger than the Jalie Laurent, which has about 7” positive ease through the bust.
Materials
I used a rayon/nylon/lycra purchased from Fabric Mart five years ago. It has 30% stretch in both the width and length. Since it met the minimum stretch requirements I was able to use self fabric for the cuffs and hem band.
The zipper is a #5 nylon zipper from WAWAK which was also in my stash.
Since my knit has 4-way stretch I used two pieces of fusible knit interfacing, on layered on top of the other with the stretch perpendicular to each other, for the section where the zipper starts.
One thing I found a bit odd about this pattern is despite calling itself a sweatshirt, sweatshirt fleece is not one of the recommended fabrics! Instead they recommend ponte, sweater knit, or French terry. I think since it is a roomy fit they don’t want you getting “lost” in it, though at least the cropped version would be totally fine if made from a sweatshirt fleece.
Construction
Jalie categorizes this as a “quick” project on their website. I don’t really agree because the front zip requires taking your time to get right (I didn’t get it 100% perfect) and the collar requires hand stitching inside. But once you’re done with the front zip and collar the rest of it goes together quickly.
I recommend looking through the instructions once before actually sewing, at least for the collar and front zip. You sew part of the collar to part of the front neckline and then do the zipper, then sew the sleeves and back together before sewing the rest of the collar to the neckline.
Since ponte doesn’t roll or fray I only used the serger to finish the inside hem of the kangaroo pockets and otherwise constructed this on my regular sewing machine.
I made the hem band the same width as the body of the shirt. As drafted it is about 6” smaller. I have some Lands’ End sweatshirts where the hem band is the same measurement as the bottom of the shirt where it attaches and I feel they just look and feel better on me than when the hem band has negative ease. (I find Lands’ End clothing often has a lot of nice details that work well for me.)
Conclusion
The Sophia has some nice details. I like how they included a tiny piece to help cover the end of the zipper, it just gives a more finished look to me. Hoodies are definitely cozy but I find the hood gets in the way when wearing a winter coat that also has a hood, so I like having collared sweatshirts in my rotation as well.
I really like the zipper length. On me it zips down to just below my bust, which is where I often leave my regular full-zip hoodies unzipped to. Sometimes I find half zips can be a pain to get on and off, but since this zipper goes pretty far down I have no issues with that.
As I mentioned before I found their lack of sweatshirt fleece as a recommended fabric a bit odd, but I will say that the weight, drape, and structure of the RPL ponte I used gives a luxurious feel when worn. It definitely doesn’t feel like a sweatshirt. It also has PLENTY of room for layering. I’ve been wearing it with a slim fit t-shirt and merino wool base layer top under it during these cold fall mornings and it flows right over everything and feels totally comfortable.
In the photos below I’m wearing both of these sweatshirts with the Jalie Roxanne pants and layered over a Jalie Tina t-shirt.
The Jalie Laurent, which I made last night:
This is why photos are hard for me now 😂
Jalie 3355, which I made about a year ago (and is a bit rumpled from just coming off the clothesline). I don’t remember if I blogged this one or not.
Pattern Background
Jalie 4131 Laurent
Classic sweatshirt and t-shirt pattern. You can make a hoodie with a kangaroo pocket or a cropped length short sleeve crewneck t-shirt. Most of Jalie’s knit top patterns require 4-way stretch knits, but for this one you can use just about any knit that has a minimum of 15% two-way mechanical stretch. If your fabric has at least 30% stretch a separate piece for a self fabric neckband (which is longer and narrower) in addition to a ribbing neckband piece. Lots of options!
It starts at size 2T. The drafting is geared for men: longer lengths in both the torso and sleeves, roomier in the shoulders/upper chest, and narrower through the hips. However there’s no reason why you can’t make this for girls and women as well. Just adjust the length and add some width to the hip if you need it.
One of the best Jalie patterns ever, in my opinion! Classic styling and can be made for the whole family from toddler to big adults. I have made this countless times for my son and husband, and now once for myself.
My son’s latest Laurent hoodie, embroidered by meJalie Laurent long sleeve t-shirt made from a cotton/lycra jersey Crewneck Laurent sweatshirt, freshly embroidered for my husband last New Year’s Eve
Jalie 3355
Crewneck or hoodie sweatshirt with sweatpants. The sweatshirt has the traditional little V applique at the center front neckline, which is a nice touch. The sweatpants are very simple and quick to make: elastic waist, curved side pockets done in a way that minimizes bulk, and elasticized hems.
This one is drafted more for women: shorter sleeve length, narrower through the upper chest and underarms, and wider assumed hip measurement. Shorter inseam for the sweatpants too. The Jalie Henri jogger pant, drafted for boys and men, assumes a 15” inseam for size 3T; 3355 assumes a 14.5” inseam for the same size 3T. But just like with the Laurent you can make this for men as well (which I have done before).
Materials
Jalie Laurent
I used a sweatshirt fleece from Fabric Mart I’ve had in my stash for about two years. The description says cotton/poly but it feels and drapes more like a 100% cotton sweatshirt fleece to me.
Instead of self fabric I used some rayon Lycra jersey I also had in my stash for the hood lining. It just so happened to be a perfect match for the fabric.
I used a bubblegum pink 220gsm weight rib knit from Nature’s Fabrics for the hem and cuffs.
Jalie 3355
I used a cotton/lycra sweatshirt fleece from Jumping June Textiles. Fantastic fabric that I wish I could use for all of my sweatshirts! I also purchased the coordinating 220gsm ribbing she had available at the time.
For the front neck detail I used machine embroidery thread.
Fit and Alterations
Jalie Laurent
I started with a size Y based on my bust measurement and made the following alterations:
Added about 4.25” total width to the hips and hem band
I wanted to note that the Jalie measurements given in the instructions/pattern sheet are incorrect, at least for my size:
35” for the center back to sleeve hem length. I measured 36”
29.5” for the center back length. It was closer to 28.25”
Jalie 3355
I also started with a size Y for this one.
Lengthened the sleeves 1″
Traced a CC for the hip, based on my own hip measurement
Added about 1″ width to the sleeves
Added about 5″ total width to the hips
The finished measurements for size Y per my measurements were:
27.5″ center back to hem
33.5″ center back neck to sleeve hem
Construction
Super easy! 1/4” seam allowances mean you can construct both of these almost entirely on your serger.
The Jalie does include that little V of ribbing you often see in RTW sweatshirts at the center front neck. I did this detail on my Janome using machine embroidery thread and one of the decorative Mode 2 stitches on my Janome 6500P.
Comparison
Both sweatshirts have approximately the same ease through the bust, waist, and hip. As drafted, both of them drop straight down from the underarm. There’s no waist shaping at all.
The sleeves on the Laurent are long. Normally I lengthen sleeves 1” and instead I had to shorted these 1”. I could probably shorten them another 1/2” but since I was shortening them after cutting and sewing the entire shirt it was less of a hassle to do just 1” and narrow the cuff.
The cuff on the Laurent runs large. I ended up taking it in almost 2”. Meanwhile the 3355 cuffs were perfect as drafted. They are both about the same height, the main difference is in how loosely they fit.
The Laurent has a more dramatic dropped shoulder and wider sleeves, which makes it sit lower in the underarm area. 3355 has a generally trimmer fit through the shoulder and upper chest.
3355 has slimmer sleeves than the Laurent. The underarm also fits higher (about 1/2” or so). Both layered fine but I think the Laurent would be easier layer in the winter.
The Laurent has a more pronounced dropped shoulder than the 3355.
Jalie 3355 is also about 1” shorter in center back length than the Laurent.
The kangaroo pocket is almost laughably small and IMO set too low for the 3355. Meanwhile I feel like the Laurent pocket is almost too large.
The hem band for 3355 is very tight. The hem band for size Y has a finished measurement of 31.75” for a 43” hip. Over 11” of negative ease! Even after adding about 6” more ease than what the pattern called for I still found it too snug, which made it ride up constantly on my pear shaped body. (Since I didn’t have enough ribbing to recut I actually ended up cropping the shirt in an attempt to minimize this issue, but then it felt too short.) It is cut as one piece on the fold with just one seam, which can make it difficult to fit on those smaller tubular rib knits if you try to add more width.
The Laurent has two pieces for the hem band (one for the front and one for the back). The ease in the Laurent hem band is much better, despite it technically being for a smaller hip circumference. It measures 42” for a 40” hip, making it 2” of positive ease. I was using a remnant of ribbing so I didn’t have quite enough to cut it as wide as I wanted (it was about 2-3” of negative ease instead of the zero ease than I wanted) but it stays in place much better. I don’t find myself tugging it down as much as the 3355.
The Laurent hood is lined. They suggest using self fabric but this can make for a bulky hood, depending on the weight of your fabric. I lined mine with a rayon jersey. Meanwhile the 3355 hood is unlined. I definitely prefer the lined hood.
The 3355 hood is also shaped a bit different. They’re actually about the same size, but the 3355 is more square shaped where the back of your head would be, and the bottom edge where it attaches to the neck of the sweatshirt is less shaped than the Laurent. I felt like the Laurent hood fits me better.
Laurent on the left, 3355 on the right
Conclusion
I prefer the look of my Ottobre zip front hoodie to both 3355 and the Laurent, but due to the close fit that one doesn’t layer well with anything other than a short sleeve t-shirt. With living in an older house in the Northeast and heating oil over $6 a gallon right now, my focus is less on style and more about practicality, ease of layering, and comfort. 3355 has the advantage of an entire outfit in one pattern, but the Laurent has more options and IMO the drafting is a bit better. The Laurent fits a taller frame better (I am about 5’9” tall) and the looser fit around the armhole makes it a little easier for layering.
The underbust darts provide a decent amount of shaping
Pattern Background
The Julia bralette has a separate bottom band, underbust darts for shaping, and racerback straps with optional strap adjusters.
The panty has no side seams. Instead the side seams are slanted and shifted forward, giving a crossover look. The back is full coverage and both high and lower rise options are in the envelope.
The pattern also gives the option of a loose fitting camisole top with an integrated bra. I have not tried this version at this point.
Fabric and Notions
The print fabric is a cotton/lycra jersey from Fashion Fabrics Club, cut from the scraps of a Jalie Tina t-shirt. The black cotton/lycra jersey was a recent purchase from Fabric Mart.
The ring used to connect the back straps was a 1/2” metal bra strap ring I found in my stash, purchased years ago from Sew Sassy. The 3/8” bra strap slides were also purchased years ago from Sew Sassy.
The 3/4” fold over elastic is from Wawak. The bottom band elastic was purchased from a seller on Amazon.
Fit and Alterations
I made a size Y for the bralette, easing it into a size W band.
I made a size CC for the panty and added 2.5” of height to the center back, tapering to nothing at the center front. I also added 5/8” with to the back leg curve:
Construction
The top is a bit more involved than the Jalie Barbara, but it is still a pretty quick make. One thing I found a little odd is that the bottom band elastic is sewn at the bottom of the folded edge of the band, so with the 3/4” width it ends up being about halfway instead of being the full height of the band. That being said, it does stay in place pretty well during wear. I found the bottom band elastic was the perfect fit based on my underbust and didn’t need to be snugged up at all, and in fact could have even been a bit looser. Just be careful when sewing the underbust darts because if you don’t taper them enough you’ll get a rather unattractive bump. Definitely recommend using your regular sewing machine with a straight stitch instead of a serger for this part.
The panty leg elastic requires some pinning before sewing because they don’t give a marking chart for where to start stretching it. You just go by feel when pinning it. Make sure you don’t make the zigzag too wide when sewing the fold over elastic to the top of the fabric because otherwise you will get stitching overlap when you sew the back to the front.
Conclusion
I’m much happier with the Jalie Julia than the Jalie Barbara. The underbust dart and separate wider band give more definition and support, and the front gives more coverage than the front of the Barbara. The only thing I would change for next time would be to make it a regular instead of racerback style. This is just personal preference as I find I don’t like the pressure they put on my trapezius muscles.
The panty is honestly the best fitting one I’ve ever sewn. It doesn’t move at all during wear! With the side seam shifted forward it also gives a smoother side seam appearance.
The Julia is overall a much better fit for those with a curvier shape. It isn’t going to give the shaping of a regular bra, but on me it gives better definition and stays in place better than the Barbara and the panty gives full secure coverage without digging in or pinching.
I made these pants with the intention of them being lightweight outdoor work pants. I help out a lot with yard work at my parents’ house now and weed whacking is a perilous task with shorts. So I wanted something full length that would be lightweight, breathable, and comfortable to wear in the heat. The Delta provide plenty of range of motion despite the non stretch fabric so I’m pretty happy with them.
Shown with one of the several Jalie Tina t-shirts I’ve made recently. Faux front fly with elasticized waistSide cargo pocket with flapMy knee patchBack patch pocketPants hem. Lots of double row topstitching throughout these pants.
Pattern Background
The Style Arc Delta is a relaxed fit cargo pants pattern. There’s back patch pockets, faux front fly, and slash side pockets along with side cargo pockets with flaps. The elasticized waist is cut to be just slightly larger than the body hip measurement, which allows you to get them on while eliminating bulk at the waist as much as possible.
As you can see from the back leg piece, the leg is slightly tapered at the hem rather than being a true wide leg from knee to hem. I actually prefer this as it makes for a more controlled silhouette, and you don’t have to worry about your hem dragging the ground or getting soaked when it rains.
Size and Alterations
I made a size 20, with the following alterations:
Lengthened the legs 1”
Added 2.5” height to the back crotch curve, tapering to 1” at the side seam and then to nothing at the center front
My finished measurement for the waist elastic ended up being 34.25”, which is between size 16 and 18.
Since I made these to be summer outdoor work pants and the fabric is fairly thing for pants fabric, I added another layer of fabric to the knee area for more durability.
Fabric and Materials
I used the same 100% cotton Robert Kaufman fineline twill fabric from Fabric Mart that I used for my Jalie Denyse shorts.
Note: even though Style Arc only gives the yardage estimate for 58” fabric, I was able to use 44” wide fabric. My size 20 with a few length alterations and doubled up knee fabric took 3.25 yards.
For the waistband elastic I used some 1.5” non-roll Stretch-Rite elastic I had in my stash. It comes in a small retail package so I must have gotten it from Joann’s at some point.
The thread is Gutermann Mara 100 from Wawak.
The interfacing for the pocket flaps is Pellon Shape-Flex from Wawak.
Construction
I constructed these entirely on my Jukie TL-2010Q. The standard foot on it is fantastic for a project like this with the double row of topstitching because you can use the very inner edge of the foot as a guide for the first row of stitching so it is 1/16” away from the edge, and then switch to using the scant 1/4” outside as a guide against the first row of stitching. Eyeballing it works great, no need to switch out for guide feet.
When I did the waistband I wasn’t sure what my finished elastic measurement would need to be since this non-roll elastic is stiffer than my usual knit elastic. To better manage this I used the same method as my Jalie shorts where you sew the center back seam for the waistband but leave a 1” opening inside, then use that to thread the elastic through and trial it before trimming and sewing it. Then I hand stitched the opening closed.
Comparison to the Jalie Denyse
These two patterns seem similar, with similar finished measurements, but the drafting is actually quite different. I would say that in general the Delta is a trouser style draft and the Denyse is more of a slacks style draft. An explanation of trouser vs slack vs jeans crotch curves can be found in this old Pattern Review post. Just for reference, the Jalie Denyse is size CC and the Style Arc Delta is a size 20. These are the corresponding sizes for a 48.5” hip.
Overall the Style Arc Delta has a much higher rise than the Denyse: about 1.5” in the back and 2.5” in the front. The back crotch curve of the Delta is also straighter, with a more scooped out back crotch curve. The Denyse is definitely more angled, with a shallower crotch curve. In the photo below I’ve overlaid the Denyse on top of the Delta. They are actually really similar measurements from hip to center back seam, but the Denyse has it shifted more towards the side so the back crotch curve ends more angled.
Here’s a comparison with the Delta on the left and the Denyse on the right.
Now for the front crotch curve comparison.
The Denyse rise is 2.5” lower in the front than the Delta.
Unfortunately the Delta crotch curve paper got a little crumpled but you can see how the Delta is much shallower and taller compared to the shorter, more scooped out curve of the Demyse.
Here they are overlaid, with the Denyse on top of the Delta. (Note that the Jalie Denyse has inseam pockets and the Delta has front slash pockets, so that’s why the top of the Delta is a lot smaller than the Denyse.) As with the back piece the distribution of the pants is so the fabric is shifted to the side seam, so you get the same amount of width across the hip despite it appearing smaller in the photo below.
Now heres the front view of the Denyse and Delta respectively. Keep in mind they’re the exact same fabric.
Jalie DenyseStyle Arc Delta
So despite appearing to have similar style and ease, the drafts for these patterns are actually quite different. The Jalie Denyse feels and looks a bit slimmer than the Delta. To me neither one is better or worse. It depends on your body type and what look you are going for. For me, the Delta flows over my hips better. You can see how there’s no diagonal lines from the elastic to the my hips. But it also has a bit more excess fabric around the center front, which does correspond more to a trouser style crotch curve/fit. With the Denyse I definitely have more under butt wrinkles than the Delta, but again this corresponds to the Denyse having more of a slacks draft. (This is why you need to think carefully about the intended draft of a pants pattern before trying to remove every single wrinkle under your butt.)
In general I would say that Jalie is drafted more for straight hips and Style Arc is more for curvier hips. You can even see this in their size chart where the Jalie waist measurement is two centimeters (about 3/4”) larger and the hip one centimeter (3/8”) smaller than the same size would be for Style Arc. That doesn’t necessarily mean you should avoid one or the other, just be aware of it and alter accordingly.
