In the photos below I’m wearing both of these sweatshirts with the Jalie Roxanne pants and layered over a Jalie Tina t-shirt.

The Jalie Laurent, which I made last night:

Jalie 3355, which I made about a year ago (and is a bit rumpled from just coming off the clothesline). I don’t remember if I blogged this one or not.

Pattern Background

Jalie 4131 Laurent

Classic sweatshirt and t-shirt pattern. You can make a hoodie with a kangaroo pocket or a cropped length short sleeve crewneck t-shirt. Most of Jalie’s knit top patterns require 4-way stretch knits, but for this one you can use just about any knit that has a minimum of 15% two-way mechanical stretch. If your fabric has at least 30% stretch a separate piece for a self fabric neckband (which is longer and narrower) in addition to a ribbing neckband piece. Lots of options!

It starts at size 2T. The drafting is geared for men: longer lengths in both the torso and sleeves, roomier in the shoulders/upper chest, and narrower through the hips. However there’s no reason why you can’t make this for girls and women as well. Just adjust the length and add some width to the hip if you need it.

One of the best Jalie patterns ever, in my opinion! Classic styling and can be made for the whole family from toddler to big adults. I have made this countless times for my son and husband, and now once for myself.

Jalie 3355

Crewneck or hoodie sweatshirt with sweatpants. The sweatshirt has the traditional little V applique at the center front neckline, which is a nice touch. The sweatpants are very simple and quick to make: elastic waist, curved side pockets done in a way that minimizes bulk, and elasticized hems.

This one is drafted more for women: shorter sleeve length, narrower through the upper chest and underarms, and wider assumed hip measurement. Shorter inseam for the sweatpants too. The Jalie Henri jogger pant, drafted for boys and men, assumes a 15” inseam for size 3T; 3355 assumes a 14.5” inseam for the same size 3T. But just like with the Laurent you can make this for men as well (which I have done before).

Materials

Jalie Laurent

I used a sweatshirt fleece from Fabric Mart I’ve had in my stash for about two years. The description says cotton/poly but it feels and drapes more like a 100% cotton sweatshirt fleece to me.

Instead of self fabric I used some rayon Lycra jersey I also had in my stash for the hood lining. It just so happened to be a perfect match for the fabric.

I used a bubblegum pink 220gsm weight rib knit from Nature’s Fabrics for the hem and cuffs.

Jalie 3355

I used a cotton/lycra sweatshirt fleece from Jumping June Textiles. Fantastic fabric that I wish I could use for all of my sweatshirts! I also purchased the coordinating 220gsm ribbing she had available at the time.

For the front neck detail I used machine embroidery thread.

Fit and Alterations

Jalie Laurent

I started with a size Y based on my bust measurement and made the following alterations:

• Added about 4.25” total width to the hips and hem band

I wanted to note that the Jalie measurements given in the instructions/pattern sheet are incorrect, at least for my size:

• 35” for the center back to sleeve hem length. I measured 36”
• 29.5” for the center back length. It was closer to 28.25”

Jalie 3355

I also started with a size Y for this one.

• Lengthened the sleeves 1″
• Traced a CC for the hip, based on my own hip measurement
• Added about 1″ width to the sleeves
• Added about 5″ total width to the hips

The finished measurements for size Y per my measurements were:

• 27.5″ center back to hem
• 33.5″ center back neck to sleeve hem

Construction

Super easy! 1/4” seam allowances mean you can construct both of these almost entirely on your serger.

The Jalie does include that little V of ribbing you often see in RTW sweatshirts at the center front neck. I did this detail on my Janome using machine embroidery thread and one of the decorative Mode 2 stitches on my Janome 6500P.

Comparison

• Both sweatshirts have approximately the same ease through the bust, waist, and hip. As drafted, both of them drop straight down from the underarm. There’s no waist shaping at all.
• The sleeves on the Laurent are long. Normally I lengthen sleeves 1” and instead I had to shorted these 1”. I could probably shorten them another 1/2” but since I was shortening them after cutting and sewing the entire shirt it was less of a hassle to do just 1” and narrow the cuff.
• The cuff on the Laurent runs large. I ended up taking it in almost 2”. Meanwhile the 3355 cuffs were perfect as drafted. They are both about the same height, the main difference is in how loosely they fit.
• The Laurent has a more dramatic dropped shoulder and wider sleeves, which makes it sit lower in the underarm area. 3355 has a generally trimmer fit through the shoulder and upper chest.
• 3355 has slimmer sleeves than the Laurent. The underarm also fits higher (about 1/2” or so). Both layered fine but I think the Laurent would be easier layer in the winter.
• The Laurent has a more pronounced dropped shoulder than the 3355.
• Jalie 3355 is also about 1” shorter in center back length than the Laurent.
• The kangaroo pocket is almost laughably small and IMO set too low for the 3355. Meanwhile I feel like the Laurent pocket is almost too large.
• The hem band for 3355 is very tight. The hem band for size Y has a finished measurement of 31.75” for a 43” hip. Over 11” of negative ease! Even after adding about 6” more ease than what the pattern called for I still found it too snug, which made it ride up constantly on my pear shaped body. (Since I didn’t have enough ribbing to recut I actually ended up cropping the shirt in an attempt to minimize this issue, but then it felt too short.) It is cut as one piece on the fold with just one seam, which can make it difficult to fit on those smaller tubular rib knits if you try to add more width.
• The Laurent has two pieces for the hem band (one for the front and one for the back). The ease in the Laurent hem band is much better, despite it technically being for a smaller hip circumference. It measures 42” for a 40” hip, making it 2” of positive ease. I was using a remnant of ribbing so I didn’t have quite enough to cut it as wide as I wanted (it was about 2-3” of negative ease instead of the zero ease than I wanted) but it stays in place much better. I don’t find myself tugging it down as much as the 3355.
• The Laurent hood is lined. They suggest using self fabric but this can make for a bulky hood, depending on the weight of your fabric. I lined mine with a rayon jersey. Meanwhile the 3355 hood is unlined. I definitely prefer the lined hood.
• The 3355 hood is also shaped a bit different. They’re actually about the same size, but the 3355 is more square shaped where the back of your head would be, and the bottom edge where it attaches to the neck of the sweatshirt is less shaped than the Laurent. I felt like the Laurent hood fits me better.

Conclusion

I prefer the look of my Ottobre zip front hoodie to both 3355 and the Laurent, but due to the close fit that one doesn’t layer well with anything other than a short sleeve t-shirt. With living in an older house in the Northeast and heating oil over $6 a gallon right now, my focus is less on style and more about practicality, ease of layering, and comfort. 3355 has the advantage of an entire outfit in one pattern, but the Laurent has more options and IMO the drafting is a bit better. The Laurent fits a taller frame better (I am about 5’9” tall) and the looser fit around the armhole makes it a little easier for layering.