Jalie 4457: Roxanne Cargo Sweatpants

Perfect pants for a cold, lazy Sunday!

With my new stretch bamboo fleece Ottobre hoodie

Background

Jalie 4457 is a pattern for sweatpants and shorts that includes side cargo pockets, side inseam pockets, and back patch pockets with flaps. The pants have a wider straight leg. The waist is finished with elastic that is topstitched in place with one or two rows of stitching (this will vary based on the size you make).

The side seam pockets can be made from one piece of jersey with the facing pocket piece self fabric to help reduce bulk. They hang from where the waistband is stitched, thus reducing bunching.

There’s the normal range of Jalie sizes, from 2T to women’s plus size 2X. I think they have an extended size pattern also available on their website that has more plus sizes. You can make these for men too though, especially if you are willing to shorten the back crotch curve for their typically flatter butts.

Materials

Jalie suggests sweatshirt fleece, French terry, and heavier jersey with at least 20% stretch across the grain.

I used a mid weight French terry with a brushed, fleecy back from Fabric Mart with 20% stretch widthwise and 40% stretch along the length. It is sooo soft and has great drape – perfect for the wider legs of this pattern!

Fit and Alterations

Based on my hip size I made a AA. I cut a size Z for the waistband elastic.

I left off the side cargo pockets. Maybe I will add them to summer shorts. I mostly bought this for the cut, not the cargo detail.

For alterations I lengthened the legs 1.25”. I probably only need an inch but I like to allow a little bit of extra fabric for new pants as I have noticed no matter how much I preshrink, as time goes on the length tends to contract. I also added 3” at the center back seam, tapering to nothing at the center front.

The 3” seems like such a dramatic amount of height to add, but a couple of years ago I got some pajama pants from Lands End that fit really well (balanced at the waist, no pulling down in the back when sitting) and when I measured them I discovered it was because the back crotch curve was so much longer/taller than the front. I use these measurements as a guide now for altering pants.

Construction

Jalie has great instructions for this pattern, perhaps even better than some of their old patterns. The pattern sheet is also color coded for the lines rather than the old style pattern sheets which are all black and white, which makes it very easy to trace your size.

The entire pants pattern uses 3/8” seam allowances, not 1/4”. You sew on a regular sewing machine then finish the edges on a serger as you go along. When it comes time to do the waistband casing you finish the edge with a serger then fold it over and stitch in place. This makes for a lot less bulk than folding the edge under. Also, when you make the front side seam pockets you baste them 3.25” (for my size) from the upper waistband raw edge, then trim close to the stitching. This way when you make the waistband casing the raw edges are caught in the seam, but you don’t have any extra bulk.

When I added the back pockets and flaps I used Design Plus fusible web tape to hold everything in place. Highly recommend over pins!

I recommend that after you sew the waistband casing in place and pull through the elastic that you try them on and adjust the gathering before topstitching the elastic in place. The first time I just went ahead after evenly gathering all around and the pockets were gaping with a lot of diagonal pulling towards the front. When I unpicked the topstitching (needed something to do after I couldn’t fall asleep after my son woke up) I adjust the gathers so there was almost none at the front and they were mostly in the back. Much better! The side seams were straight, the pockets flat, and the front was much flatter and more flattering.

Conclusion

Great comfortable sweatpants and shorts pattern for the slightly stretchier heavier knits out there.

Jalie 3022 Yoga Pants

Background

These yoga pants have a bootcut leg, optional topstitched seams, and and upper and lower waistband which can be used with a contrast fabric. The waistband is secured with 3/8” elastic at the upper edge. The back is split into two pieces, which is great if you’re like me and always dealing with gaping at the center back!

As usual with Jalie, the enormous size range goes from child size 2 to adult women’s 22 (so hip sizes 22”-53”)

Materials

Jalie recommends fabrics with 50% minimum stretch in both the width and length.

For my first version (not shown as it is in the laundry!) I used light-to-medium weight cotton/lycra French terry with around 50% stretch in both directions from Fabric Mart.

For my second version (which is shown in the photos above) I used an Italian viscose/lycra French terry from Gorgeous Fabrics.

Fit

I made size AA based on my hip measurement, and did the following alterations:

Added 3” to height of center back seam. I am unsure if for future versions I would keep this much height. On one hand I love how when I bend over it is super secure. On the other hand, after being worn for a while it seems like it was a bit too much as when the day goes on the fabric relaxes and I end up feeling like 2-2.5”may have been enough. For the two versions I made the extra height isn’t a deal breaker.
Added 1” length to the inseam.
Took in the waist slightly, using a size Z and snugging in the elastic to a size Y. I took in the waist entirely at the back leg seams.

Both of the pants fit really well, and are SUPER comfortable. They avoid the RTW fit issues of feeling too tight in the legs while being too loose in the waist, and the fabrics are simply heavenly. This is my go-to pattern for stretchy knit pants now.

Construction

These are a simple sew. I only used my sewing machine for stitching the waistband elastic ends together and then zig-zagging the elastic to the upper waistband edge. It was otherwise constructed entirely on my serger and cover stitch machines. Jalie provides good instructions with both text and illustrations.

Jalie 2919: Pleated Cardigan

Worn with my navy Style Arc maternity pants

I actually made this back in February. In early March I was finally starting to feel well enough to work on taking photos, and then I got covid (along with my husband, parents, and one of my brothers). Somehow all of us avoided it for three years, only to get it this spring!

Background

Jalie 2919 is a basically one of those tunic length “waterfall” style cardigans. The pleats help keep the volume at the top in control, with the fabric starting to let out at the waist. The sleeves are cut very long to allow for scrunching. Plan on shortening them if you want them to just be normal full length sleeves.

Jalie had this listed in their maternity/baby category. I think this is a great top for pregnancy because it helps hide everything in the first trimester, still fits once you start getting a bump, and then will continue to fit postpartum.

Materials

For this cardigan you’re going to want to use a lighter weight knit with lots of drape and 4-way stretch. Rayon/lycra or modal/lycra jersey is perfect. A thinner cotton/lycra jersey would also work.

My first cardigan was made from a rayon/lycra jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics, purchased recently during Ann’s big anniversary sale. It is super soft and stretchy, and I love cuddling up in it! I meant to take photos of it today, but completely forgot about it until after I had already taken down my reflector, camera, etc. Oops!

My second cardigan, which is in the photos, was also a Gorgeous Fabrics rayon/lycra jersey. Another super soft knit with wonderful drape. The colors are so beautifully muted and perfect for springtime.

Fit

I made a size V, which corresponds to a 37″ bust (my measurement at the time).

Tapered out to a size Z for the hip
Lengthened between bust and waist 3/4″
3/8″ forward shoulder alteration
3/8″ sloped shoulder alteration
I lengthened the sleeves 3/4″ before realizing that they were already drafted to be really long (and with my brain fog I failed to notice this on the pattern model). I ended up shortening them at the hem 2″ – and that is after removing the 3/4″ length I added.

Notes

Jalie has you stitch the pleats from the inside then just baste them in place at the neckline. Instead of stitching I basted the pleats from the inside, then topstitched them in place from shoulder to waist (about where they end). I think it looks a bit more finished and does a better job keeping them in place during washing.

Jalie 3896: Émilie Top

A few quick photos before it snows again!

Background

Jalie 3896 is a square shaped funnel neck top with fitted sleeves. This is a free pattern, available for download from the Jalie website. This is a very quick and technically simple project – with minimal distractions you can download, print, assemble, cut, sew, and finish this top all in one evening!

Jalie patterns include a very wide range of sizes, with a lot of the patterns going from children to plus size. This pattern is also set up with the sizes as layers, so when you print it out you can print ONLY the size(s) you want. I love this feature! You just go to the left sidebar, click on the Layers icon, and then click on the eyes of all the sizes you don’t need. I wish every pattern download had this feature.

For many years now I favored more streamlined looks, with a lot of waist emphasis. I loved knee-length wrap and A-line dresses, bootcut pants with fitted tops that hit just below mid hip length, fitted jackets, etc. After 35 I gained a small amount of weight, but still kept my small waist and flat belly and only had to make minor adjustments in woven clothing styles (basically tracing halfway between my original size and the next size up). In fact I hardly sewed for several years because I was perfectly happy with my wardrobe and saw no need to change things. When you sew your own clothes they last a long time! But right now with pregnancy rapidly changing my body I have to start going in a different direction. My flat belly, defined waist, and modest bust are pretty much gone at this point and out of sheer necessity (rather than personal preference) I’m looking towards slim leg pants and the oversized/boxy shirts, dresses, and jackets that are so popular right now…you know, stuff that is comfortable and will still fit in a month. It feels very strange. I haven’t had to do a wardrobe change this significant since I was about 22 and going from college student to working a full-time white collar professional job.

That being said, while it is fine for casual loungewear I don’t love this look and won’t make it again. I think this would work better on someone smaller busted (never thought I’d say those words) and has a more straight up and down figure. There’s a reason why they picked kids and a very slim woman for their pattern envelope models! But it was very quick to make and in the meantime provides me something to wear for when I go for afternoon walks with my husband (which I am finally physically capable of again, yay!)

Fit

I started with a size W, which corresponds to my current 38″ bust measurement. From here I:

Added 4″ width to the hip. Even though this is a very roomy style, my thin, clingy knit made me want to err on the side of caution.
Lengthened 1.5″ at the hem
Added 1/2″ length to the sleeves. After making it up I saw it wasn’t necessary. The sleeves as drafted are definitely on the long side! Plus I’m still used to sewing my old size where everything was drafted shorter, plus this fabric is stretchier than what the pattern was drafted for so that alone adds some extra length.

I would say if you make this, consider sizing down, especially if you use a stretchier knit.

Materials

The fabric I used was a very lightweight poly sweater knit I purchased back in late 2020 from Fabric Mart Fabrics. I believe I originally bought this to make a wrap dress, but when I got it I felt like it was too lightweight and stretchy for this project. I set it aside, figuring I would eventually find a suitable project. Despite being polyester it is soft and isn’t prone to static (my two major complaints about a lot of polyester knits). It is also surprisingly cozy considering how thin it is.

Construction

I made this entirely on my serger, then followed up with hemming on my coverstitch machine. Everything went together smoothly! Jalie has technical drawings as well as written instructions to guide you along. This is a great project for a beginner.