Pattern Background
The Julia bralette has a separate bottom band, underbust darts for shaping, and racerback straps with optional strap adjusters.
The panty has no side seams. Instead the side seams are slanted and shifted forward, giving a crossover look. The back is full coverage and both high and lower rise options are in the envelope.
The pattern also gives the option of a loose fitting camisole top with an integrated bra. I have not tried this version at this point.
Fabric and Notions
The print fabric is a cotton/lycra jersey from Fashion Fabrics Club, cut from the scraps of a Jalie Tina t-shirt. The black cotton/lycra jersey was a recent purchase from Fabric Mart.
The ring used to connect the back straps was a 1/2” metal bra strap ring I found in my stash, purchased years ago from Sew Sassy. The 3/8” bra strap slides were also purchased years ago from Sew Sassy.
The 3/4” fold over elastic is from Wawak. The bottom band elastic was purchased from a seller on Amazon.
Fit and Alterations
I made a size Y for the bralette, easing it into a size W band.
I made a size CC for the panty and added 2.5” of height to the center back, tapering to nothing at the center front.
Construction
The top is a bit more involved than the Jalie Barbara, but it is still a pretty quick make. One thing I found a little odd is that the bottom band elastic is sewn at the bottom of the folded edge of the band, so with the 3/4” width it ends up being about halfway instead of being the full height of the band. That being said, it does stay in place pretty well during wear. I found the bottom band elastic was the perfect fit based on my underbust and didn’t need to be snugged up at all, and in fact could have even been a bit looser. Just be careful when sewing the underbust darts because if you don’t taper them enough you’ll get a rather unattractive bump. Definitely recommend using your regular sewing machine with a straight stitch instead of a serger for this part.
The panty leg elastic requires some pinning before sewing because they don’t give a marking chart for where to start stretching it. You just go by feel when pinning it. Make sure you don’t make the zigzag too wide when sewing the fold over elastic to the top of the fabric because otherwise you will get stitching overlap when you sew the back to the front.
Conclusion
I’m much happier with the Jalie Julia than the Jalie Barbara. The underbust dart and separate wider band give more definition and support, and the front gives more coverage than the front of the Barbara. The only thing I would change for next time would be to make it a regular instead of racerback style. This is just personal preference as I find I don’t like the pressure they put on my trapezius muscles.
The panty is honestly the best fitting one I’ve ever sewn. It doesn’t move at all during wear! With the side seam shifted forward it also gives a smoother side seam appearance.
The Julia is overall a much better fit for those with a curvier shape. It isn’t going to give the shaping of a regular bra, but on me it gives better definition and stays in place better than the Barbara and the panty gives full secure coverage without digging in or pinching.
