Background
Ottobre 5/2012 #11 is a fitted v-neck tshirt with long narrow sleeves and pleats at the bust held in place with a self fabric tab. It comes in sizes 34-52 which is standard for Ottobre.
I had been admiring this pattern ever since I first saw it in 2012!
Materials
Ottobre’s sample was made from a viscose/lycra jersey with 30% stretch. No indication of it was 4-way or 2-way stretch.
I used a very stretchy rayon/lycra jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics.
Fit
I made a size 44 and added 4” to the hips. Based on my previous experience with the two other t-shirt patterns in this issue (which use the same block) I made the next few alterations:
- Took in the upper chest 3/8” by doing a narrow shoulder alteration and easing in the back shoulder seam into the front. I feel like the upper chest ran wide on this pattern, but this also could have been my very stretchy fabric.
- The length is LONG on this pattern. I shortened the sleeves 1.25” and trimmed off 1.5” from the body hem.
- The sleeves were quite tight, especially around the elbow area. If you look at the pattern pieces the sleeve actually curves in at the elbow, instead of going in a straight line. I cut the sleeves in a straight line.
Construction
I love how this top looks, but the construction was a huge pain in the butt.
The neckline is beautiful but it took me several tries to get it right. This fabric is thin and stretchy and wiggly and unforgiving. The pattern doesn’t include markings for the front neckline pleats. You’re supposed to arrange them yourself based on how it fits. I just took a guess and made about five 1/4” wide pleats. I then faced a lot of issues with getting the front tab stitched in place in a way that looked professional and not wonky. I was not going to let it defeat me. I finally got it to work by doing the following:
- Interfaced the front tab with a lightweight interfacing.
- Once I secured the pleats in place with a row of stitching at the center front, I took a piece of iron-on tear-away stabilized and fused it to the wrong side.
- I attached double-sided fusible web to the wrong side of the tab, then fused it to the center of the pleats before stitching.
All three of these steps FINALLY got me an evenly stitched front neckline.
It took me a few tries but I also finally got the v at the front neckline stitched more or less evenly as well.
Ottobre doesn’t give a measurement for the front neckline binding. Based on my fabric stretch I cut it to 85% of the length of the neckline.
Once the front neckline was finished it was super easy to construct the rest of the top. I’ve made all three of the t-shirts in this issue and this is my favorite view, even though construction of the neckline is not the easiest. I love it both worn alone and under my new Ottobre hoodie!
Clothing Engineer 
When I opened your post and saw what you had made, my first thought was that you had done an amazing job with a difficult neckline treatment. Reading your description of the process proved it was tricky. I think your work looks fantastic, and I really like this style. I had thoughts of trying to re-create it myself but know I’ll never get around to acquiring the various bits to hold that center piece in place.
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I actually recommend anyone sewing get a roll of iron-on tear-away stabilizer (you can find them on Amazon) as well as a roll of fusible web. They both have so many uses for various sewing issues. A lot of people use tissue paper under fussy knits but the iron on stabilizer in this case makes sure those pleats won’t move at all when sewing on the tab.
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Have you seen this pattern? Might give a similar look but rather easier perhaps? https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/23601
Cheers,
Vanessa King
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I think I might actually have that pattern! Never tried it though.
Now that I have a “procedure” in place for making the Ottobre top it seems like making another one would be no big deal. It was just a process getting there!
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